And the celebration continues in Chile, where last week 33 miners were rescued after being trapped more than 2,000 feet below the surface for 69 days. When they finally were reunited with their family and friends, all of Chile did what they do best: celebrated with Chilean wine.
In my last column, I explained how the geographically isolated, thin-stripped country is protected by more than 2,500 miles of Pacific coastline on the west, the Andes Mountains to the east, the Atacama Desert to the north and Antarctica in the south. These natural barriers have created such a pristine ecosystem that the vine cuttings brought from Europe more than 400 years ago are thought to be the only remaining phylloxera-free vine specimens that exist in the world today. (This virulent agricultural pest destroyed many famous vineyards in Europe in the late 1800s.)
Thanks to a fertile mixture of geography and climate, Chile has been blessed with a diverse agricultural environment that is perfect for growing a wide range of produce, including avocados, apples, berries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, and, of course, wine grapes.
While winemaking in Chile originally began as a way for Spanish missionaries to produce wine for religious services, it quickly became apparent that the predictable climate and fertile soils were well-suited to producing wines of exceptional quality. Over the next century, Chilean wine producers began to search for the most advantageous locations to plant vineyards. They discovered that the diverse topography and rich soil of the Central Valley was capable of supporting many of the popular “old-world” grape varietals such as cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and merlot.
As exports of quality wine began to increase, winemakers embarked on a mission to explore other regions of the country in order to supply the growing demand. Today, in addition to the popular Maipo and Casablanca valleys, winemakers and vineyard owners are pushing out toward the sea (San Antonio and Itata valleys), up into the foothills of the Andes (Curico and Aconcangua valleys) and up into the arid northern portion of the country (Eliqui and Limari valleys). They are also experimenting with new varieties in these new regions, looking for the perfect combination of soil, climate and grape.
At a recent tasting hosted by the Chilean Embassy, several regions — old and new — were represented to showcase the diversity of today’s Chilean wines. This week, I will continue my geographical exploration of the land with Chilean red varietals. If you get an opportunity, pick one or more of these wonderful wines and raise a glass in honor of 33 remarkable men. Retail prices are approximate.
I have to admit, when I think Chile, I rarely think about pinot noir, but the 2007 Kingston Family “Alazan” Pinot Noir from the Casablanca Valley ($30) is about to change that. The fragrant nose features a bouquet of mushroom and forest floor while the palate exhibits savory flavors of plum and dark cherry. There is just a hint of mineral on the plush finish that really brings all of the flavors into balance.
Chile is making big inroads with traditional varietals such as cabernet sauvignon. The 2008 Los Vascos “Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) hails from the popular Colchagua Valley. Coastal influences result in hot days and cool nights, developing great balance in this wine. Flavors of blackberry jam, ripe black plums, dark cherries and tobacco glide across the palate. The remarkable structure carries notes of vanilla, licorice and tobacco on the elegant finish.
Just to the south of the capital city, Santiago, is the Cachapoal Valley, home to the 2007 Santa Carolina “Herencia” Carmenere ($15). Chile has adopted this French red varietal — which for many years was mistakenly referred to as merlot — as its national grape. This version has concentrated flavors of plum, cherry, black raspberry jam and tobacco on a round, smooth frame. Firm tannins support a long, structured finish where hints of vanilla and espresso glide in.
Chilean winemakers are quickly perfecting the art of blending red varietal grapes, as evidenced by the remarkably luscious 2006 Maquis “Lien” Red Wine ($18) from the Colchagua Valley. Made from a blend of syrah, carmenere, cabernet franc, petite verdot and merlot, this wine is beautifully balanced and elegant. Flavors of dark plum, blackberry, blueberry cobbler and pepper are lush and balanced in the mouth. Notes of vanilla and toasted oak provide depth on the impressive finish.
Finally, Chilean winemakers have set their sights on the north — northern Rhone, that is. Due west of Santiago is the Limari Valley, home to the 2008 Tabali “Reserve” Syrah ($16). This deep, rich red Rhone Ranger is bursting with fruit-driven flavors of red cherries and blackberries that lead the charge upfront while subtle notes of tobacco and pepper bring up the rear on the well-rounded finish.
