If you have been hanging out in Napa Valley as long as Nils Venge, you might get a bit saddle sore — or at the very least, somewhat jaded. But then again, if you loved doing what you do as much as Nils, you’d probably be happy to just keep getting back on your proverbial horse, vintage after vintage and keep the grape rodeo going. As a fan of California wines, I have seen a lot of winemakers come and go — or at least fade away after one or two successful vintages. Rare, indeed, is the producer who can, year after year, make great wines on a consistent basis. I first met Nils, a six-foot-something broad-shouldered blonde of Danish descent who fancies himself a modern-day cowboy, about six years ago. I was amazed at how dependable his wines were and asked him what his secret was. He replied that he looks at vintages like riding a horse at a rodeo; “You never know what horse you’ll draw, but you have to get to know that horse pretty darn quick and learn how to stay on.” And stay on, he has.
Nils was destined to ride vintages. His father owned and operated a wine, beer and spirits distributorship in Los Angeles. After Nils finished high school, he decided to learn more about the wine-end of the business, so he enrolled at University of California-Davis where he earned his undergraduate degree in viticulture with a minor in enology. After a stint in the Vietnam War, he headed up to Napa to pursue his love of wine. In 1976, Nils and his father-in-law purchased the property now known as Saddleback Cellars in Oakville. But it was his time as General Manager and winemaker at Groth Vineyard (1982-93), where he was a minority partner, which really launched his career. Nils’ 1985 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was the first California wine to receive a perfect score of 100 points from wine critic Robert Parker Jr. After that, Nils’ talents were in great demand.
Today, Saddleback has about 15 acres planted to cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, pinot blanc, pinot grigio and zinfandel. Even though Nils is often referred to as “The King of Cabernet,” he would rather be known as just a fun-loving winemaker who is dedicated to making wines — for both Saddleback and other wineries throughout Napa Valley — that take advantage of the best qualities of every unique vintage, whether it is a single vineyard or a blend of appellations. But of all Nils’ remarkable accomplishments, I think the one he is most proud of is his son, Kirk, who is a remarkably talented winemaker in his own right.
On a recent trip to Napa, Cindy and I had the opportunity to sit down with Nils and Kirk and taste some of their wines. Retail Prices are approximate.
If you’re looking for something to quench your thirst on a hot day, the 2008 Saddleback Cellars Pinot Grigio ($24) is about as close to a wine fire extinguisher as you’ll find. The floral bouquet shows off scents of green apple and honeysuckle while the crisp acidity keeps the flavors of apple, nectarine and citrus bright and refreshing in the mouth. The long, creamy finish is courtesy of aging the wine on the lees in neutral French oak barrels.
The 2008 Saddleback Cellars Chardonnay ($26) delivers a lot of wine for the money, starting with a nose that features aromas of ripe apple, pear and buttered toast. Flavors of apple, pear and Myer lemon are supported by a creamy mouthfeel. The medium-bodied finish boasts enough acidity to stand up to richer shellfish and seafood.
Nils has been making zinfandel since 1992, and he puts his institutional knowledge to work in the 2007 Saddleback Cellars Old Vine Zinfandel ($36). The fruit comes from two old-vine vineyards whose average age is over 100 years old. Scents of red cherry and spices swirl in the bouquet. The full-bodied frame supports jammy flavors of blackberry, raspberry and black pepper up front, while notes of cedar and vanilla fill in on the big finish.
A roaring fire and glass of the 2006 Saddleback Cellars Merlot ($36) is all I need on a cold winters night. The warm aromas of dark plum, black cherry and black raspberry on the nose lead to beautifully layered flavors of black cherry, cassis, blackberry and cocoa in the mouth. Just a touch of melted licorice rounds out the long, lush finish.
Of course, no review of Saddleback wines would be complete without cabernet sauvignon, and the 2005 Saddleback Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon ($54) is as good as it gets. Aromas of blackberry, cassis and cedar dominate the fragrant bouquet. Ripe black fruit — black plums and blackberries — sit on a well-balanced frame with smooth tannins and pitch-perfect acidity. Notes of cedar, cocoa and roasted coffee linger on the supple finish.
