If one snapshot could capture the essence of Virginia-raised chef Melissa Ballinger, it would be this: A young woman calls for her two black dogs as they all hop into her car and drive away. Carefree and easygoing, yes, but this chef has stood behind the stoves of some of D.C.’s busiest kitchens before opening her own casual and charming pizzeria, Mia’s Pizzas in Bethesda.
Like most chefs, Ballinger got into the game young when her college roommate impressed her with his culinary skills.
“I didn’t know how good food could taste,” Ballinger said, “and I would watch him cook. It was phenomenal. I started to cook with him.”
They planned to open a nightclub together in D.C., but before that could happen, Ballinger needed some hands-on kitchen training. Starting in the prep kitchens of the now-defunct West End Café with its cool, innovative food, Ballinger realized how little she really knew about cooking.
A series of cooking stints followed, from the kitchens of Tabard Inn, where she worked with Peter Pastan and Lisa Cherkasky, to New Heights, Crowne Plaza and finally to Clyde’s as corporate chef for the Clyde’s Restaurant Group’s then-nine restaurants, a pressured job she handled with a level head and steady hand.
Her talents were recognized by her peers. In 1995, Ballinger received the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington nomination for Chef of the Year.
Then came a three-year stint at the Blue Mesa Grill in Dallas. Her palate influenced, a move back to D.C. as Austin Grill’s corporate chef was a natural fit. She oversaw the kitchen and was responsible for compiling, standardizing and developing its recipes.
So how does pizza fit? When Pizza Paradiso opened its second restaurant in Georgetown, she got on board.
“I like pizza because it is so approachable and it’s for everyone, crossing all the demographic lines of income, age and background,” Ballinger said. “Besides, it’s a festive food and a food to share.”
Pizza’s versatility inspired Ballinger to open her own spot in Mia’s — “Mia was my family nickname,” she said — where she has devised an innovative menu of toppings that, quite surprisingly, do not contain any Tex-Mex ingredients. What patrons will find, however, are updated American comfort dishes — deviled eggs and mac-n-cheese, for example. Plus, its wood-fired pizzas and dessert cupcakes will melt your heart.
Now with her own place, Ballinger considers herself lucky. She lives close to the restaurant, and if pressed for time, can literally run home to care for her dogs.
In Ballinger’s own words
What is your favorite food?
That changes so much. Lately I have really been craving ribs. Sometimes I go through cycles and I eat something to death like roasted sweet potatoes and broccolini with hot peppers. And with pizza, that changes. We had a special panetta with smoked mozzarella, caramelized onions, garlic and fresh hot chilies.
Which ingredients are your “musts”?
Really good fruity olive oil that is not too green. Really good cheese, like a great fresh mozzarella. And high-quality meats.
What is the key to cooking success?
I am not sure there is an absolute answer as we don’t all have the same cooking style. Is there a formula? You have to be tenacious in your approach to food.
What tools do you need?
Sharp knives and a library of cookbooks. I have always collected them because reading is my way to relax.
What is your comfort food?
Ice cream. Chocolate, though I am fickle.
What’s in your fridge?
Since Mia’s opened, a lot less food in it: juice, yogurt, grapefruit, lettuce, grapes, oranges, condiments. A lot of Asian and Indian products.
What is your cooking philosophy?
Over the years, I have learned to keep it simple and to respect the ingredients. Food is naturally beautiful on its own, and it is not my job to make it something else. As I get older, the simpler I want it. Pizza does that. The fresher the better. It’s not about how many ingredients are in one dish.
Melissa Ballinger’s Deviled Eggs
“I put these deviled eggs on my menu because so many people like deviled eggs but no one makes them anymore. The only time you get to eat them is at family reunions, church suppers and holiday parties. The best thing about eating deviled eggs at Mia’s Pizzas restaurant is you can enjoy them without having to talk to your least favorite aunt.” – Ballinger
Feeds 6 — 3 pieces per person
9 hardboiled eggs
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Kosher salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Chopped chives for garnish
Directions:
Carefully peel hardboiled eggs. Slice each egg lengthwise; clean your knife between each egg so you can keep the egg whites pretty.
Remove egg yolk from each egg half and place in mixing bowl. Use a fork to mash egg yolks until smooth and light.
Add mayonnaise and mustard and mix until well blended.
Season with salt and pepper.
Taste and adjust seasoning.
Stuff egg mixture into a plastic bag and twist bag at opening, forcing egg mixture into one of the corners of the bag. Cut off a small diagonal piece off the corner with egg mixture.
Place cooked egg whites with egg yolk indent facing up. Pipe the egg filling into the indent made by yolk. You will probably use about 1 tbsp. of egg mixture for each deviled egg.
Sprinkle a little cayenne pepper on each deviled egg. You can substitute the cayenne with paprika if you don’t want a hot spice.
Garnish each egg mixture of each deviled egg with a sprinkle of chopped chives.
Dive in and enjoy.
