A dancer has to take a pretty big leap to go from toe-tapper to grape-stomper, but that is the graceful transition legendary performer Rodney Strong made in 1959 when he and his longtime dance partner, Charlotte Ann Wilson, married and moved to Tiburon, Calif., to begin a new life.
Rod was once asked what inspired him to give up dance for a career in wine. He responded with his now famous quote: “I knew I couldn’t be an old dancer, but I could be an old winemaker.”
So in 1962, Rod purchased vineyard land and an old winery in Windsor. His wine, made from estate-grown grapes, eventually garnered so much attention that he was able to raise enough equity to buy land in Sonoma County — which at the time was still knownmore for prune orchards than for grape vineyards. Steadily, Rod expanded his vineyard operation and production of quality wines.
About the same time, Rick Sayre was just beginning his own making career at Simi Winery in Healdsburg. Rick was fortunate enough to cross paths with renowned wine consultant Andre Tchelistcheff, who also was working at Simi.
Andre, whom many in the wine industry consider to be the father of modern winemaking in California, taught Rick more about winemaking than anyone else. As Rick put it, “I didn’t learn about just making wine from Andre. I learned about the art of winemaking.”
After spending nine years at Simi, Rick was ready for a change. When Rod asked him to take over winemaking operations at Rodney Strong Vineyards in 1979, Rick jumped at the chance.
Ten years later, a young businessman from a well-known farming family decided he wanted to get into the wine business. He was sure he could take the Rodney Strong name from success to significance, so in 1989, Tom Klein purchased Rodney Strong Vineyards.
Today, Rodney Strong Vineyards has just more than 1,000 acres under vine and plans to bring on another 300 acres in the next four to five years. That’s a lot of grapes.
The good news is that the quality is there to match the quantity, setting the stage for a pas de deux between wine and tongue. Here are a few of my favorite dance partners. Retail prices are approximate.
2005 Rodney Strong “Charlotte’s Home” Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma
($14 at The Wine Specialist in D.C.)
Named in honor of Rodney’s wife, this updated sauvignon blanc has a creamy mouthfeel thanks to the 10 percent that goes through malolactic fermentation and barrel aging. Citrus peel and grapefruit dominate the front of the palate while floral notes and hints of gooseberry appear on the crisp finish. A way to waltz with oysters.
2005 Rodney Strong “Chalk Hill” Chardonnay, Sonoma
($20 at Calvert Woodley in D.C.)
This wine has been made in the famed Chalk Hill district since 1976, a full seven years before it became an official appellation. The mature vines and barrel fermentation lend complexity and balance with flavors of apples, pear and melons on a minerally frame. This would do-si-do nicely with poached lobster.
2004 Rodney Strong “James Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
($28 at Circle Wine and Liquor in D.C.)
This pretty pinot is given just a little heft with 4 percent syrah blended in. Abundant acidity gives the bright fruit flavors of red raspberry and cherry wonderful depth while the combination of new and seasoned oak barrel aging helps provide balance. Notes of forest mushrooms on the finish make me want to polka with polenta spiked with black truffles.
2004 Rodney Strong Zinfandel Reserve, Sonoma
($30 at The Wine Specialist in D.C.)
The dominant nose of vanilla comes from aging in seasoned oak barrels — since, according to Rick Sayre, “putting zinfandel in new oak is like putting perfume on John Wayne.” But that doesn’t stop the lush blueberry and black cherry flavors from shining through on the palate. The peppery finish is looking for a rack of baby-back ribs to tango with.
2002 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma
($45 at Paul’s Liquor in D.C.)
Rick blends about 12 percent merlot and just a pinch of cabernet franc into this reserve bottling and then ages it in a combination of French and American oak for 27 months. The result is a wine with balanced fruit and firm tannins, providing great structure. Flavors of blackberry liqueur, cassis and plums linger on the lush, full finish. A chance to hula with a hanger steak, pomme frites included.
Do you have a favorite wine?E-mail me at [email protected].
