Chef is an old hand at new cuisine

Mie ‘N Yu’s Tim Miller finds way to blend love of anthropology with cooking Now a self-described “old hand” at running the kitchens at Georgetown’s exotic Mie ‘N Yu restaurant with its Silk Road theme, Executive Chef Tim Miller has been ensconced in its kitchens since the doors first opened eight years ago. But long before that, pursuing the kitchen life seemed remote to young Miller, an anthropology student who worked during the summertime as an archeologist.

“I went on some really cool digs,” he said. “I worked in the British Virgin Islands on Caribbean Indian archaeology with the University of London, where we had several significant finds. But when I graduated, I knew I would only have contract jobs unless I got a masters or a Ph.D.”

While Miller attended college, however, it turns out he supported himself by washing dishes in a local restaurant. By the time he reached his senior year, Miller was working nearly 55 hours at the restaurant and was a kitchen manager. So, when faced with making a career choice — graduate work or a money-making career — Miller chose the business world, working briefly for a brokerage firm part time before enrolling at Johnson & Wales for a culinary degree.

“I just loved the fast-paced life,” he said. “And I went from the corporate world to kitchen freedom. I didn’t like sitting in a cubicle for eight hours. … I jumped in [to the kitchen] feet first and head first. It is all-consuming.”

After working at the Norfolk then Gaithersburg Marriotts, Miller was hired at Mie ‘N Yu when it opened, during which time he has learned every aspect of its internal operations.

“This has been a huge learning curve,” he said, noting because of the eclectic nature of the restaurant’s menu — which showcases dishes from all cultures of the Silk Road region, including China, India, Persia and all countries in between — he must spend hours researching their history and cuisines.

“There’s never a dull moment,” he said. “Of course, anthropology and the study of cultures fit into this job.”

Because the menu at Mie ‘N Yu is rather complex, Miller collaborates with the general manager to assemble a menu, incorporating a very extensive local meat program, where they buy only whole animal carcasses and also offer a chef’s tasting menu as a platform for his new dishes.

Not only must he incorporate Silk Road fare, “We also key into what’s happening in town, too,” he said.

“For example, we honor the Cherry Blossom Festival and featured dishes keyed to the Terra Cotta Warriors exhibit,” he added.

While cooking was not part of his childhood experiences, rural life and agriculture was.

“As a kid, I never thought of cooking,” he said, though his parents are proud of his success, if not a bit puzzled by his career choice.

“I grew up in the country, in Isle of Wight County in Virginia. I have always enjoyed agriculture,” he said. That’s provided the perfect background for his free-time farming, when he heads to southern Virginia where his family owns a small farm.

“I am growing produce for the restaurant. … I completely know the traceability of what I cook, and the sourcing. I grow 50 percent Asian vegetables because I can’t buy them here or get them easily. It’s fun, and I really love being outside.”

His eventual goal? To raise some animals for restaurant use.

Q&A with Chef Tim Miller

What’s your comfort food?

Probably a big bowl of a “family-meal” soup, such as a sopa de res (beef soup) or a big bowl of rice.

What are your kitchen basics?

Shaoxing wine, Szechuan peppercorns, rice vinegar, palm sugar, shrimp paste, cilantro, pork fat, wood chips and tea.

Where is your favorite place in the world?

Probably at home at my parents’ house having a holiday dinner with my sister and her kids. Or being in the middle of the woods before dawn. It’s very peaceful.

What’s in your fridge?

Pasta from last night, limes, mayonnaise, some local organic eggs, pickles, an organic skirt steak. Not a whole lot.

Which are your favorite restaurants?

China Jade in Rockville and Hong Kong Palace in Seven Corners.

From the Chef’s Kitchen

Spicy Shaoxing Littleneck Clams

Serves three to four as an appetizer or as a tasting course. Serve the clams with a flatbread such as naan or roti for soaking up the sauce.

2 tbsps. vegetable oil

1/4 cup diced smoked pork belly or Chinese sausage

1/4 cup sliced shallots

2 tbsps. minced garlic

2 tbsps. minced fresh ginger

6 dried Thai chilies or arbol chiles

30 Virginia littleneck clams

1/2 cup Shaoxing wine or sherry

1 cup pork stock or chicken stock

2 tbsps. dark soy sauce

1/4 cup sliced scallions

Heat the oil in a heavy braising pan over medium heat. Add the pork belly and render for three or 4 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, ginger and chilies and continue sauteing for 2 minutes or until slightly tender.

Add the clams, and saute for 1 minute. Add the wine, and reduce by half; add the stock and dark soy sauce, stirring all together, and bring to a boil. Cover with a tight-fitting lid, and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until all the clams are open.

Toss with the scallions, transfer to a large dish and serve with the flatbread.

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