The future of lab-grown diamonds begins to raise concerns over hazy sustainability claims

Sales of lab-grown diamonds have jumped in recent years, but people are questioning the “sustainable method” of these artificially grown gems

Many diamond customers, particularly Generation Zers and millennials, are opting for lab-made diamonds due to their lighter carbon footprint and affordability. But the claim of sustainability is proving murky because the synthetic gems require a formidable amount of energy and most manufacturers are not providing details on their energy consumption. 

Some companies do not disclose any environmental report or certification from third parties despite marketing the stones as “sustainable” and “eco-friendly” on their websites, the Associated Press reported.

Lab-grown diamonds consist of the same properties and crystal structure that give them an authentic appearance. They include the same chemicals, but synthetics only cost a third of the price. Like natural diamonds, they are made of tightly bonded carbon atoms, according to the Gemological Institute of America. They respond to light and pressure the same way as natural diamonds.

The main contrast is the diamond’s origin and age. The GIA said that “laboratory-grown diamonds are like ice from your refrigerator, while natural diamonds are like ice from a glacier.” 

Polished lab-grown diamonds sit at Greenlab Diamonds, in Surat, India, Monday, Feb. 5, 2024. (AP Photo/Ajit Solanki)

Lab-grown diamond sales were up 47% in 2023, largely because they cost a fraction of the price of a real diamond. For example, a 1-carat princess-cut diamond natural stone would cost $2,500, while a lab-grown diamond of the same size and cut is a fraction of the price at $500, CBS reported

“Unnatural diamonds used to be identifiable to the human eye,” said Ulrika D’haenens-Johansson, senior manager of diamond research at the GIA. “Although they are chemically the same materials as natural stones, nowadays they are imperceptible. You can’t see the difference.” 

People work at a planning area of Greenlab Diamonds, a lab-grown diamond producer, in Surat, India, Monday, Feb. 5, 2024. (AP Photo/Ajit Solanki)

The meticulous process of making a diamond requires lots of energy, such as carbon pressure, and many major manufacturers have yet to be transparent about their origins and operations process.

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“There are many variations of these diamonds. … To say that man-made diamonds are the eco-friendly alternative is too simple of a narrative. It’s much more nuanced than that,” said Paul Zimnisky, a diamond industry analyst. 

A consolidated Diamond Mining staff member sorts through a selection of diamonds, July 24, 1989, in Windhoek, Namibia, to judge them for color and quality. (AP Photo/Billy Paddock)

The first lab-grown diamond was made by General Electric in 1954 under the code name “Project Superpressure.”

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