I think if I could have any superpower it would be the ability to predict the future. First of all, I would have sold all of my stock at the top of the market last year, and then I would have more money to spend on the second thing I would do with my powers: Buy today what I know would mature into beautiful wines far into the future. Unfortunately, I do not have that power. Fortunately, thanks to Clos Du Val, I do not need it.
The future for Clos Du Val began back in 1970 when American businessman John Goelet sent French-born winemaker Bernard Portet off to find a place in the “new world” to produce first-rate wines. Portet eventually ended up in Napa Valley where, following a drive through the area with his arm out the car window, he decided that the diurnal swings and unique terroir of the Stags Leap District had the potential he was looking for. So in 1972, Goelet acquired 150 acres of land and founded Clos Du Val, literally “small estate of a small valley.” A short time later, he purchased an additional 180 acres of hillside land in the then-fledgling Carneros region for their chardonnay and pinot noir program.
The combination of the cooler location, valley fruit and Portet’s old-world winemaking style helped Clos Du Val develop a reputation for producing wines with remarkable finesse, balance and “ageability.” The first vintage of cabernet sauvignon in 1972 was one of only six California cabernets selected for the now-legendary 1976 Paris Tasting. That same vintage took first place in a rematch 10 years later, proving that Clos Du Val wines age with grace.
Today, Bernard Portet has been elevated to vice chairman and has handed off the winemaking responsibilities to John Clews. But make no mistake — Bernard is still involved in winery operations, working with John as a team to produce elegantly blended wines. John’s goal — and Bernard’s passion — is to produce wines you can enjoy with friends and food. “My wines,” states John, “are about aroma, suppleness and finesse — not about power. I like to make wines that are meant to be enjoyed with food.”
Bernard recently was in town with an assortment of older wines from the Clos Du Val library to demonstrate how well his wines from the Stag’s Leap District in Napa Valley develop over time. He certainly made seeing into the future a lot easier — and tastier. And given how well the wines from the past are holding up, the future look very bright for current vintages. Retail prices are approximate and subject to change.
1985 Clos Du Val Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calif. ($80)
Made from a blend of 80 percent cabernet sauvignon, 15 percent merlot and 5 percent cabernet franc, this wine has evolved into a wine with incredible finesse with a seductive nose featuring scents of black fruit, currant, violet truffle and sweet tobacco. The silky, smooth structure still holds up to the surprisingly young flavors of cassis, black currant, cherry and tobacco. There is just a hint of warm licorice on the persistent finish.
1992 Clos Du Val Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Calif. ($70)
This was the first year that Stags Leap was recognized as its own appellation and wineries were allowed to use the designation on their label and — thanks to phyloxera, a pesky vine louse — the last year that the “old” vines were used to produce this wine. The sweet bouquet of black plum, cocoa, mocha and dried herbs seduces the nose while fleshy notes of plum, truffles and pan grille provide layers of flavor over the entire palate. Hint of roasted coffee round out the elegant finish.
2001 Clos Du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District, Calif. ($60)
Jump in the time machine and fast-forward almost a decade where scents of violets, vanilla and mocha dominate the nose. The younger grapes produce a wine with earthy flavors of blackberry, ripe black cherry and vanilla and chocolate across the broad palate. The soft tannins provide plenty of structure on the long, luscious finish where just a touch of menthol sneaks in on the back end. Definitely a wine that could use another 10 years in the cellar.
2004 Clos Du Val Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Calif. ($55)
Now firmly back in the present, this beautiful cabernet shows a glimpse of what the future holds. From the big bouquet of ripe fruit, dark plum, cassis, vanilla and truffles to the remarkably young flavors of blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate, this wine is a miniature time machine in a bottle. The sweet tannins are pronounced and provide marvelous structure now and will continue with 10-plus years of aging. But just in case you can’t wait, you’ll still be rewarded with hints of ripe cherry and sweet tobacco on a graceful finish.
