Bryan Voltaggio proves looks can be deceiving.

Instead of being a fresh-scrubbed, all-American farm boy, Voltaggio is a fresh-scrubbed, all-American, high-profile executive chef at one of D.C.’s power spots: Charlie Palmer Steak. Just steps from Capitol Hill, the restaurant provides the setting for such discussions as this one recently overheard at the bar: “He’s an ideologue … Well, what if the Republicans … If you look at the RFP .. He has more tapes than…” and so on. Voltaggio cooks for them all, whatever their political persuasion.

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