What started as an early refueling station in the mid-1600s for Dutch trading vessels on their way to and from the East Indies quickly grew into a thriving young community, complete with vineyards and wineries. From its early establishment, known initially as The Cape, South Africa eventually became an important, if not controversial, country ensconced along a vital trade route.
Winemaking in South Africa took off in the latter part of the 17th century with the arrival of French Huguenots. Even though the French refugees lacked the “modern” equipment available back in their homeland, they were blessed with wonderfully fertile land and the maritime influences of two powerful oceans. They persevered and developed a thriving wine industry.
Today, South Africa has emerged from apartheid-driven political banishment to become an active global trading partner. One of the benefits of this reform is the access Americans now have to wines that take the best of both traditional and modern winemaking techniques. A new generation of winemakers is learning to take advantage of the country’s distinctive terroirs as well as new advances in viticulture. The result is wines that offer very good value.
I recently had the opportunity to taste a wide range of wine from South Africa, and I was impressed by the diversity of grape varietals and the uniqueness of their expression. Here are a few of my favorites that are available locally. Retail prices are approximate.
2005 Paarl Heights Cinsault Shiraz, Paarl Valley, South Africa, $9
At The Vineyard in McLean
Cinsault is one of the unsung varietals of winemaking. Traditionally used as a blending grape, its low tannin content and smooth texture are used to soften the edges of bigger wines. Here it works with shiraz to produce a wine that is supple in the mouth, featuring ripe flavors of cherry, red berries and plum. I think it would be a great sidekick to burgers.
2005 Cape Collection Chenin Blanc, South Africa, $11
At Finewine.com in McLean
Native to the Loire Valley in France, the chenin blanc varietal is known for its versatility among white wines. This example shows beautiful flavors of kiwi, pineapple and passion fruit on the palate. The fresh, crisp finish would make a great aperitif for your next summer barbecue.
2005 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $17
At The Vineyard in McLean and Planet Wine in Alexandria
This version of chenin blanc runs a little more on the spicy side with scents of baked bread on the nose and flavors of lemon/lime, wet stones and nectarines on the zesty frame. A wonderful match with steamed mussels.
2004 Hidden Valley Pinotage, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $20
At Schneider’s of Capitol Hill in D.C.
When I think of South African wines, I think of pinotage. This hearty red grape was created in 1925 by crossing the aforementioned cinsault with pinot noir. The resulting varietal is a sort of “pinot on steroids.” Hidden Valley’s version offers plenty of black cherry jam, sweet plums and Asian spices on the palate and just a touch of spicy cedar on the lengthy finish. For a real treat, pair it with barbecued ribs.
2001 Warwick Shiraz, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $20
At Circle Liquor in D.C.
Classic scents of pepper are found on the nose and palate where flavors of black plums and blackberry cassis join in. Soft tannins create a smooth landing for the hints of mint that loiter on the supple finish. Lamb chops, here I come.
2004 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir, Walker Bay, South Africa, $29
At MacArthur Beverages in D.C.
A pretty version of pinot with notes of ripe red cherries, strawberries and red currants that coat the tongue. Earthy hints of mushrooms and orange peel slide in on the plush finish to provide a touch of elegance to this charmer. I’d love to take it for a spin with duck a la orange.
2003 Rustenberg John X Merriman Bordeaux Blend, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $30
At Calvert Woodley in D.C.
This predominantely cab-ernet sauvignon-based wine is bold and complex, featuring dark, ripe blackberries, cassis and smoky cedar upfront. Hints of cinnamon and clove cover the back of the palate and seem to linger on the lush finish, buoyed by the soft tannins. Drinking like a wine twice the price; splurge on a New York strip.
2004 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Walker Bay, South Africa, $24
At Schneider’s of Capitol Hill and Circle Wine and Liquor, both in D.C.
Great nose of brioche followed by spicy pears and roasted nuts in the mouth. Notes of wet stone sing on the crisp, bright finish. Perfect with roasted halibut.
