We’ve been telling you lately about the proliferation of “fast-casual” eateries around town, such as Eamonn’s in Old Town, Tackle Box in Georgetown and Chix on U Street. Well, now it’s time to add another worthy name to that growing list — Surfside in Glover Park.
Taking its cue from the beach cuisines of the world, Surfside is the brainchild of Bo Blair, the man behind Smith Point and Rookery, the list-at-the-door hangouts for the Georgetown set, as well as Jettie’s sandwich shop on Foxhall Road.
As at Jettie’s, Blair’s partner is Chef David Scribner, a D.C. native who also has cooked at Felix, Smith Point and the late Dahlia.
The Scene: First dates and firstborns vie for tables at this brightly colored, casual spot. The exposed brick, shoreline mural and tropical hues evoke a seaside vibe, while upbeat music and an upstairs roof deck complete the picture.
The Pour: A plentiful selection of non-alcoholic drinks at the front counter complements a surprising array of mostly Mexican and Caribbean beers at the full bar in back. Five red and five white wines are available by the glass, and two frozen drink machines will keep the beachcombers coming back.
The Taste: Scribner’s menu is a case study in healthy yet tasty cuisine. Take the Martha’s Vineyard, a vegetarian quesadilla that includes mushrooms, spinach and smoky corn that packs a surprising punch of flavor, especially when you dip in the lime sour cream or the fresh guacamole. Tortillas — flour and corn — also make appearances in the form of burritos, fajitas and tacos. Among the best are the Andros (flour tortillas with marinated steak, yellow rice, watercress and cucumber yogurt sauce) and the Nevis (grilled shrimp tacos with pineapple salsa, avocado, yellow rice and lime sour cream). They’ll make you forget you’re 3,000 miles from Southern California. An array of dinner salads and a rotating cast of entrees like swordfish with blue cheese salad and scallops with spinach and sweet potato puree round things out.
The Touch: Ordering involves filling out multiple sheets, which, while easy to master, still tend to leave first-timers a bit confused. After ordering you are given a buzzer, which lets you know your order is ready. From there, you’re on your own as you schlep the food to your table. And help can be hard to come by: On one occasion, the expediter wasn’t doing much else except talking to a line cook. Nevertheless, he took one look at my group’s four plates and then at my two hands, and told me in all seriousness, “I guess you’ll have to make two trips.”
Don’t Miss: The Tahiti-grilled fish on jasmine rice with grilled pineapple, snow peas, cilantro and ginger green curry sauce.
Why you will go: As Blair says, “People are kind of tired of spending a ton of money to go out to dinner.” So it’s nice to know you can get a swordfish entree for $15.
Why you won’t go: Even at $15 or more, I go back to the fact that you’re still your own waiter. This is especially troublesome if you’re trying to bring multiple plates to the upstairs deck — an exercise that requires multiple trips up 29 steps.
If you go
Surfside
2444 Wisconsin Ave. NW
202-337-0004
surfsidedc.com
Hours: Lunch — 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday-Friday; Dinner — 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Thursday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday, 3 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday, 3 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday; Brunch — 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
Prices: Tacos, quesadillas and burritos $7.95 to $9.95; salads $9.95 to $11.95; entrees $13.95 to $16.95
Bottom Line: Fresh, healthy, beach-inspired fare where the price is right.