With Mendocino Grille in Georgetown and Sonoma on Capitol Hill, Eli Hengst and Jared Rager have twice tapped into a winning formula of portions made for sharing, a robust wine program and modern decor that evokes the West Coast.
They’re at it again. For their third venture, they chose a redeveloped patch of Bethesda called Bethesda Lane. Despite the name, it isn’t really a street so much as a narrow, cobblestone-paved, upscale strip mall, closed to traffic and lined with boutique shops.
The scene: Like its namesake, Redwood is big. Under its 18-foot ceilings are 120 seats in the main dining room, another 75 seats in the lounge, and a 15-seat “dining bar” that divides the two. Its namesake is also evident in the decor, which features reclaimed wood from redwood olive oil casks, tree bark on the walls of the bar. Stone, slate and heavy, unclothed tables complete a gorgeous (and, by the looks of it, quite expensive) space. Make a reservation or arrive early, however: Those tables fill up quickly.
The pour: You wouldn’t call Redwood a wine bar as you might Hengst and Rager’s other establishments, but wine is still a big part of the formula here. Brian Cook, formerly of The Source by Wolfgang Puck, helms a 125-bottle list that emphasizes the United States and Pacific Rim countries and keeps things interesting without getting overly expensive. A Winekeeper system pours 16 of them in smaller amounts — a 100 ml taste, a large 250 ml glass or a 500 ml carafe. Beer gets some attention, too, with eight microbrews on draft and several more available by the bottle.
The taste: To run the kitchen, the owners tapped Andrew Kitko, a veteran of such esteemed spots at Cafe Boulud in New York and Gary Danko, Aqua and Palmetto in San Francisco. His menu stresses sustainable, locally sourced and organic ingredients, prepared simply over a wood grill or in a wood burning oven. You might start with fresh Bluebay mussels, seared in an iron skillet with only a bit of parsley butter, a welcome departure from the norm. A crispy softshell crab is adorned with smoked tomato “fondue” and basil aioli and baked stuffed cherrystone clams evoke the shores of Cape Cod. Among the entrees, I enjoyed the spice-rubbed pork loin with Vidalia onions and sinfully rich grits, and a whole roasted rockfish with lemon, herbs and olive oil. More adventurous eaters can sample a delicate quail with braised greens a roasted plums, while herbivores will appreciate a vegetarian gratin with fingerlings, leeks and fennel.
The touch: You never know what you’ll get servicewise. On my visits, I’ve had one of the friendliest, most helpful bartenders I’ve encountered anywhere. I’ve also had distant, aloof servers who seemed mystified by the most routine of menu questions.
Don’t miss: The wood-grilled New York strip steak, served family style. One of the best pieces of beef I’ve had in months.
Why you will go: To sit outdoors on the 100-seat patio, a spot that has the virtue of being airy while still mostly shielded from sun and wind.
Why you won’t go: Because said patio isn’t always open. On more than one occasion, I’ve happened by to find the chairs tied up outside. A spokeswoman says the restaurant is still in the process of securing a liquor license for outdoors, which would keep the space open more regularly.
Quick info:
Redwood Restaurant and Bar, 7121 Bethesda Lane, Bethesda, Md., 301-656-5515, www.redwoodbethesda.com.
Hours: Breakfast — 7:30 to 10 a.m. Monday-Friday; Lunch — 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; Dinner — 5 to 10 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 5 to 10:30 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday; Brunch — 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Prices: Appetizers $8 to $14; entrees $14 to $48.
Bottom line: The folks behind Sonoma and Mendocino Grille bring ingredient-focused regional cuisine to Bethesda.
