From his kitchen downtown at Georgia Brown’s, chef Yealy whips up classic Southern dishes that help Dixie natives survive in the District and encourage others to think again about the land that’s about as famous for its food as it is for its college football. In this region, some people look down on the South. Why don’t they look down on Southern cooking?
I think people like it because it’s comforting. There is nothing more comforting than grits and collard greens and red rice and fried chicken. I think it’s one of the more popular cuisines in Washington. I think people appreciate it. I think it’s one time where they think they can let their guard down and not think so health-conscious and really enjoy what they’re eating.
Southern cooking has plenty of offerings. Tough question, but if you could choose one favorite, what would it be?
Shrimp and grits, which from Alabama through Georgia up into the Carolinas into Maryland is a different dish the whole way through.
What defines a good restaurant experience for you?
I’m a total-package guy. I believe that every restaurant in Washington gives good food, good service and a good-quality ingredients. The restaurants I go to deliver what I consider to be details to those disciplines. Giving service is one thing, but giving great service is another. It’s the same with the food. It’s about attention to detail, the small garnishes you put on the plate and the care that you put into it.
Best meal you’ve had in the last month?
I had a great meal at D.C. Commons down on Washington Circle. They just opened a couple of months ago. It’s American fare, but the attention to detail and service was there. I thought the food was well-thought-out and well-executed.
– Alan Blinder
SDHp
