If he wore jeans and a T-shirt instead of chef’s garb, the executive chef of the prestigious Oval Room restaurant might well be mistaken for a guy who’s about to play basketball. But Antonio “Tony” Conte, tall, lean and supercharged with energy, channels his drive into running one of Washington’s most prestigious kitchens just steps away from the real Oval Room.
The Connecticut native, like many of his peers, started his culinary career as a dishwasher. But the owner of the Italian restaurant where he worked must have seen his latent talent because Conte quickly moved up to prepping and making pizzas. Fortunately, several of his career-minded buddies on staff talked about attending The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and urged Conte to enroll as well.
“I went right out of high school,” Conte said. “I had no breaks. Had I not done that, I never would have followed through.”
And Conte has no regrets about zeroing in on this profession.
“My dad owns his own electrical contracting company, and I gave it a shot. ” he said. “But it was not very exciting. I couldn’t face getting up every morning and putting in another plug.”
Nor do those who sample his food. Conte not only has an associate culinary degree, but he has also worked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the country’s leading chefs.
He peered in the street-level kitchen window of Vongerichten’s New York restaurant and decided he just had to get a job there, one way or another.
“Coming from Jean-Georges, I had really the best training,” Conte said. “I worked on getting the job for about six months.”
Starting with Vongerichten in 2003, Conte worked as both chef de partie at Vongerichten’s casual Jo Jo and later as executive sous chef at his four-star restaurant, Jean-Georges. Those experiences helped shape Conte’s cooking philosophy, which he describes as “new American.”
“I immersed myself in what was going on in the kitchen there,” Conte said, adding that he follows Vongerichten’s principles in The Oval Room’s kitchen, keeping it simple without muddling the plate with too many ingredients.
Though Conte’s new position — he has spent about 95 percent of his time in The Oval Room’s kitchen since he arrived — is demanding, he obviously is meeting the challenges of creating a new menu and a new direction for the restaurant. And Conte obviously feels right at home.
In Conte’s Own Words
What influences your cooking?
My cooking here is based on what I think will work, and some items are not common here in D.C. Like lily buds. I try not to use cookbooks, and I don’t copy other chefs. I look at the weekly produce list and use what’s in season. The menu changes often, and the new dishes we create we put lots of time and effort into them.
What is your favorite dish?
I don’t know if I have any, or even a favorite ingredient.But for a final meal? I would want pizza made right. And a really good dish of pasta.
What ingredients are your must-haves?
Quality products that are all perfect. Coming from Jean-Georges, I really had the best. I use Thai chilies in nearly every dish, like the beets and vinaigrette dish [see recipe at right]. I even make artichoke jam with Thai chilies. The actual chili is spicy but not overbearing.
What is the key to successful cooking?
Not taking any shortcuts. And keeping probing forward, developing yourself, learning something new every day. Do what you love.
What is your comfort food?
Doritos. I could sit down and eat a whole bag. Or a whole quart of ice cream.
What’s in your fridge right now?
A case of Coke, jalapeños, limes, fresh thyme, rosemary, lettuce. Yogurt for my son.
Roasted Baby Beets and Passion Fruit Gelée
Serves four to six
1.5 pounds baby beets, mixture of red, yellow and candy stripes
Bruised whole thyme to taste
Bruised whole sage leaves to taste
Red wine vinegar to taste
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
Water
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Freshly grated horseradish to taste
Arugula leaves for garnish
Vinaigrette
1/2 red Thai chili, seeded and minced
3 ounces minced shallots
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
2 ounces balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 ounces red wine vinegar
1 ounce olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Passion Fruit Gelee
1 pound frozen passion fruit purée
8 gelatin sheets
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. To prepare the beets, wash each and place in separate bowl. Toss the beets in each bowl with a mixture of the thyme sage, red wine vinegar, olive oil, water, salt and white pepper. Place the beets in a single layer in separate baking pans, wrap each pan in plastic wrap and foil, and roast for 35 to 45 minutes, or until tender. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, peel the beets. Set aside until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, to make the vinaigrette, combine all the ingredients except the olive oil and set aside for 30 minutes. Add the oil and adjust the seasoning. Keep at room temperature.
To make the passion fruit gelee, thaw the purée and soak the gelatin sheets in cold water. Bring the purée to a simmer over low heat, stirring to prevent caramelization. Whisk in the gelatin and pour the mixture into a large baking pan. When the mixture has set, dice it and store in a large container in the refrigerator. To serve, arrange the beets on individual plates, and top each serving with arugula leaves. Drizzle with vinaigrette and garnish with diced passion fruit gelée. Pass with freshly grated horseradish.
