The Wisconsin Assembly is considering making Colby the official state cheese.
The Assembly Committee on Local Government heard arguments Wednesday for Assembly Bill 311, introduced by Republican state Rep. Donna Rozar.
“Today, I am proud to continue these efforts of recognizing the cheese that helped Wisconsin garner the nickname ‘America’s Dairyland’ and propelled Wisconsin cheesemaking onto the world stage,” Rozar said at the hearing.
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Colby cheese was invented near the town of Colby, Wisconsin, in 1885 by 16-year-old Joseph Steinwald, who modified the traditional process for making English cheddar cheese. He would rinse the cheese curds in cold water and not remove the excess moisture, creating a cheese that was softer, more sliceable, and a little sweeter than cheddar.
“Colby cheese is about the people of this great state and what makes this state a prize. People all across the country and all around the world know Colby cheese. Why shouldn’t we tell them, ‘Colby cheese is the Wisconsin original’? It started here in a small town, and now it’s world-famous, and we should all join in the pride that the people here today from Colby are feeling,” said Ann Luckey, Steinwald’s great-granddaughter, at the hearing.
Other legislators have attempted to give Colby the designation. Former Republican state Rep. Bob Kulp took on the initiative in 2019.
“I would like to let you know that I stand in full support of Assembly Bill 311, and I appreciate the Assembly Committee on Local Government holding a public hearing on this bill,” Kulp told the committee. “I am hopeful that this legislation will move forward, receive a vote in executive session, and give Colby cheese its long-awaited recognition as the state cheese of Wisconsin.”
Kulp’s bill failed to pass due to some legislators’ concerns over the implications of the bill.
“I just have an issue making one cheese the state cheese. There is a wide variety of stores and shops in my district that have a wide variety of cheese that they sell. Cheese is very popular in the state of Wisconsin, as is sausage. I can’t get behind it,” said Republican state Rep. Rick Gundrum.
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The committee may choose to send the bill to the legislature, where it must clear the state Senate and Assembly and be approved by Democratic Gov. Tony Evers before becoming law.
