Constantine “Gus” Kalaris may very well be one of the nicest people I have ever met. A gregarious man of Greek heritage, he prefers a giant bear hug to a handshake. His broad smile and deep laugh are genuine and infectious. He has an appetite for both food and wine and an even bigger passion for friends and family, particularly his wife, Lynne, and his two children, son Alexander and daughter Sophia.
Gus first fell in love with wine while doing a stint as a Maitre d’. He not only enjoyed tasting a wide variety of wines but also loved turning people onto his personal favorites. In 1981, Gus continued to expand his knowledge of wines when he landed a job with a wine wholesaler. It exposed him to the business side of the equation and gave him an opportunity to sift through myriad California wines and develop relationships with key people in the industry. He quickly developed a reputation for finding great wines in a wide range of price points.
In 1986, Gus took advantage of his contacts and founded Constantine Wines, which represents notable high-end, hard-to-get-a-hold-of wines, including Harlan, Bond, Peter Michael, Staglin and Dunn Vineyards to name just a few. Gus knows that these “cult” wines may often get his foot in the wine shop — or restaurant — door, but it is the rest of his diversified portfolio that he believes delivers true value to the consumer.
But Gus decided it was not enough to simply distribute high-end wines for his clients; he wanted to make those wines himself. So in 1998 he founded Axios (Greek for “worthy”), a winery based on the two principals: making the kind of wines that Gus likes to enjoy with friends over a meal and making a wine he can be proud to offer his buyers. After seeking counsel from a few of his Napa Valley clients, Gus decided to work with consulting winemaker Bob Egelhoff since they both shared the same vision of producing a top-flight wine from quality grapes.
Today, Kalaris produces four wines that range in price from his top-of-the-line cabernet sauvignon, Axios ($125) down to his wonderful, value-oriented red blend, Truth ($19). But his philosophy is the same for every wine. “We’re serious about what we’re doing,” says Kalaris. “It has to be all about value, whether it’s a $125 bottle of wine, a $29 bottle of wine or a $19 bottle of wine. We want the wine to be superb at every level and deliver the best value.”
Mission accomplished. Retail prices are approximate and are subject to availability.
2007 Cuvee de Fumé Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, Calif. ($19)
The grapes for this wine are sourced from 50-year-old vines. Half of the wine is barrel-fermented while the other half is fermented in stainless steel tanks. A touch of muscat provides floral highlights on the nose and gives the wine a little extra depth. In addition to the scents of acacia, notes of citrus and orange blossom also shine through on the bouquet. The weighty mouthfeel underlines the clean flavors of grapefruit, kiwi and nectarine. The finish is nicely balanced and has a subtle richness to it, again, thanks in part to the muscat.
2006 Truth “Lindsey’s Cuvee” Red Wine Blend, Napa Valley, Calif. ($19)
This blend of syrah, malbec, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc is an incredible value. The fragrant bouquet highlights scents of spice, vanilla, black cherry, cinnamon and baker’s chocolate. The well-crafted wine has wonderful depth and balance with layers of black plum, cherry, cassis and chocolate integrated with sweet tannins. Notes of violets and dark chocolate on the lush medium-bodied finish make you check the price again. While this wine is crafted for early consumption, I recommend opening it at least 30 minutes beforehand to let it breathe.
2006 Worthy “Sophia’s Cuvee” Red Wine Blend, Napa Valley, Calif. ($29)
Utilizing the five classic Bordeaux varietals (cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot and malbec) sourced from vineyards throughout Napa Valley, this blend packs a lot of wine in the bottle for the money. At the heart of this wine, about two thirds of it, is the cabernet sauvignon that doesn’t make it into Axios (Gus’ high-end wine). The nose displays aromas of blackberry, black cherry, spice, dried herbs and cola. Wonderfully complex flavors of dark fruit, coffee, vanilla and mocha coat the entire palate. Cassis liqueur and violets accent the lush finish. This is a big, rich wine, worth twice the price.
2006 Axios Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calif. ($125)
This massive, brooding wine is Gus’ premier achievement. Crafted by Bob Egelhoff, it exudes scents of black cherry, dark plum, blackberry, dark chocolate and toasty oak on the expressive bouquet. Powerful flavors of dark plum, blackberry, cassis and mocha are kept in check by ripe tannins with nice underpinnings of chocolate/mint, sweet oak and earth on the impressive finish — which easily lasts 45 seconds. This wine should be cellared for at least five years to take advantage of its potential.
