After studying Farrah Olivia’s brown wall decorated with arty white saplings and the ceiling with its cascade of dangling discs, you may describe the overall effect as “lush” fanciful” or even “exotic.” After sampling one of executive chef/owner Morou Ouattara’s creations, you’d probably use the same adjectives, adding “elegant” and “wildly fanciful.” Obviously, Chef Ouattara’s Alexandria restaurant kitchen is his playground, where he can create, adapt and dream about food as art.
The Ivory Coast native came to the United States after high school to join his brother studying computer sciences. To earn spending money, Ouattara decided to cook, starting as a dishwasher at Ristorante i Ricci in Washington.
“Along the way, [Francesco] Ricci showed me what to do,” he says.
But Ouattara was not a total stranger to kitchen craft.
“Growing up in Africa,” he says, “I watched my mother cooking all the time. … She was an excellent cook. … I also learned how to butcher when I was young. We were so close to food, as my dad had a farm producing yams and mantioc. I helped to harvest.”
Because it’s women who primarily do the cooking in Africa, it’s unlikely that Ouattara would ever have discovered his true calling if he’d stayed home. But, he adds, “I think my mother would rather see me with a computer diploma.”
Luckily, Morou Ouattara decided he’d rather cookthan compute.
“I’m doing something that I love,” he says. “Would I be happy as a scientist? I don’t know.” At least his present occupation allows him to explore the culinary world in ways most people can’t imagine. What about such dishes as sweet plantain fritters with refried coconut and peanut butter powder? Or the very complex and totally extravagant domestic pork loin, orange braised pork belly and hibiscus noble reisling?
Stumped by these creations? Ouattara explains his style: “I cook like I speak — American cooking with African and international spices,” he says, remembering how his mentor chef Mark Miller of Red Sage fame counseled him to do “1, 2, 3 cuisine.” That is, Ouattara says, he was told to focus on a protein, a sauce and a choice of starch or a vegetable, selecting items that his staff could cook properly and consistently. That worked for D.C.’s now-closed Red Sage, where Ouattara earned one of his several “chef of the year” nominations from the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington.
But as his skills developed and his imagination flourished, Ouattara found his culinary voice.
“I cook for the ladies. The food has got to be pretty,” he says, adding that food and eating must be an experience. “Chefs must understand that before they taste; there’s a lot to consider,” he says, listing menu creation, visual presentations that elicit a “wow,” and seductive aromas.
“A chef is both a cook and an artist,” he adds. “People eat with their eyes, then their ears, and then their nose.”
Leaning back in his chair, Ouattara smiles as he describes how he came up with his steak tartare by first deconstructing the traditional recipe, using caper berries, creating toast points, and poaching a quail egg for his version. It’s easy to see why this daring young chef is contending for one of American cooking’s highest honors: becoming the next Iron Chef on the new series, “The Next Iron Chef.” Stay tuned as the competition premieres at 9 p.m. Oct. 7 on the Food Network.
In Ouattara’s own words
Do you cook at home? Not so much. My wife does most of the cooking. It’s a good thing, as I like it. We have two children, so when I’m home it’s all about them.
What is your favorite food? My mother’s cooking. It’s about memories, and what I grew up eating — one-pot dishes with smoked lamb and a melon seed sauce, or powdered yam under the smoked lamb.
What is your cooking philosophy? People should cook what they know best, but they should not be closed to new ideas, new ways to manipulate food. Try the new ideas, but don’t forget the basics. Put flavors into food. Don’t ever forget that. Use your passion to put flavors on the plate … Make good, good food.
What are your key ingredients? Salt and pepper. Salt is my secret weapon. Then I use the spice from Africa, such as alligator pepper, melon seeds, tail peppers, palm oil. And sugar is very important.
What’s in your fridge right now? Baby food, and drinks such as orange and grape juice. I bring food from the restaurant, so there’s Vidalia onion purée, filet mignon, halibut and half-and-half for the morning coffee.
Which is your favorite cuisine? I’m not sure I have a favorite. I’ll try anything at least once. I like ethnic food. I see the original [food] so I can interpret it. That’s why chefs travel to taste the traditional dishes.
Sweet Plantain Fritters with Refried Coconut and Black Pepper Honey
Makes about 24 fritters
Serves 4 generously
» Plantain Fritters
3 cups dried black-eyed peas
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped scallions
1 teaspoon chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
2 plantains, peeled, cored and chopped
Salt to taste
Oil for frying
Soak black-eyed peas in water for at least a few hours or overnight. After soaking, rub peas together between your fingers to remove the skins. Rinse to wash away the skin. Drain peas. In a food processor, puree peas into a thick paste. Add enough water to form a smooth, thick batter. Add all other ingredients except the oil. Allow the batter to stand for a few hours. Heat the oil in a deep fryer. Beat the batter with a wire whisk or wooden spoon for a few minutes. Using a small ice cream scoop, scoop batter into the hot oil. Turning frequently, fry the fritters until they are golden brown. Remove from the fryer and dry them on clean towels. Serve warm on a tablespoonful of the coconut spread out to make a pool; drizzle the honey over top of the fritters.
Tail Pepper Honey
1/2 cup honey
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
Pour honey into a pot, place on fire and reduce for 10 minutes. In the meantime, toast black pepper in hot skillet. Remove from skillet and let cool. Transfer pepper into a grinder; and grind until coarse. Remove from grinder and mix with honey.
Refried Coconut
1 medium onion, quartered
3 tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 onion, diced
1/2 cup shaved coconut
1 teaspoon paprika
salt to taste
Place onion and tomatoes in a medium-large saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Blanch for 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft. Remove from the heat, drain and transfer to a blender. Puree until smooth. Remove from the blender and set aside. Heat oil in a small saucepan, cook the onion until golden brown. Add the tomato mixture into pan and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add coconut and paprika. Cook for 5 minutes. Season with salt. Serve warm.
If you go
Farrah Olivia
600 Franklin St., Alexandria, Va.
703-778-2233
Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, nightly; Brunch Sat. and Sun. Major credit cards accepted.
