Last week, I wrote about wines from Portugal, but not the typical port wines usually associated with the European county. Rather, I introduced the remarkable wine values being produced in and around the capital city of Lisbon. However, as one reader recently pointed out, Lisbon is not the only region with a corner on the value market. There are many good buys to be had on the port-side of Portugal, namely tawny port. Port wine starts off as traditional red wine, but the fermentation process is interrupted by the addition of a distilled grape spirit known as aguardente. This process results in higher residual sugar and higher alcohol content. The Douro region, where the port grape varietals are grown, hugs the formidable Serra do Marao mountain range. The rough rocky terrain provides plenty of stress for the grape vines, forcing more flavor into the fruit, of the three major grape varietals: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca.
The four most popular types of port wines, in general order of price, are vintage ports, late bottled vintage ports, ports with indication of age and tawny ports. All styles of port are crafted using a blend of the aforementioned varietals, as well as other lesser known grapes, which allows each house to create a particular style that is consistent from year to year.
Tawny ports are the best example of this blending technique. They are aged in large wooden barrels, called pipes. As wine evaporates from the barrel, port wine from the next oldest barrel is used to top off the pipe. As each container is filled, the next oldest container in line is used. This procedure is repeated until the end of the designated aging process is completed. This method allows wines from different vintages to be blended together. During the process, the wine experiences a subtle exposure to air, which mellows the wine, while the aging in wood departs a nutty characteristic to the wine.
Typical tawny ports spend at least two years in barrels and are either sweet or medium dry. They make a nice aperitif on a cold night and pair well with most chocolate-based — and some fruit-centric — desserts. Best of all, they are ready to enjoy within a year or two of purchase. Retail prices are approximate.
As tawny ports go, the non-vintage Taylor Fladgate Special Tawny ($14) is special. It has a reddish-amber color typical of older ports. The medium-bodied frame supports sweet flavors of cherry jam, roasted apricot and black plums. The clean finish features baking spices and clove.
Fonseca is a leader in aged vintage port wines, but their non-vintage Fonseca Tawny Port ($13) is worthy of attention on its own. It sports an aromatic nose, featuring bright cherry notes that leads to flavors of coffee-toffee, red cherry and cola syrup on a silky smooth textured body. The long, pleasant finish is well worth the price alone.
One of my favorite tawnies is the non-vintage Sandeman Tawny Port ($15). The integrated flavors of caramel, toffee and jammy black plum meld beautifully with the toasty finish. For a treat, chill it down and serve it with apple pie.
Moving up into the world of aged tawny port brings us to the Warre Tawny Port 10-Year-Old “Otima” ($22). The number of years on the label represents the average age that the wine spent in wood. This version supplies plenty of layered flavor on the full-bodied frame, with notes of dried mango, caramel and roasted coffee on the front of the palate and hints of cocoa on the smooth, elegant finish.
Another quality aged tawny to hunt down is the Croft 10-Year-Old Tawny Port ($23). The complex bouquet is filled with scents of jammy black fruit and melted licorice. Flavors of ripe black cherries on the front of the tongue give way to toffee and butterscotch notes on the velvety, long finish. Perfect paired with chocolate.
