For the past several weeks, I have been writing about my virtual globe-trotting wine-tasting adventures. My latest stop on this international review is a country known more for its sweet, fortified reds than for the powerful-yet-graceful wines that Portugal has recently added to its “port-folio.”
Portugal, a thin strip of land roughly the size of Indiana, is on the Iberian Peninsula in Western Europe. Spain literally wraps around the northern and eastern borders, while the cool Atlantic Ocean lies to the west. The temperate waters of the Gulf of Cadiz form the southern border. Although grapes are grown throughout the country, the most notable wine-producing districts are inland, away from the maritime influences of the Atlantic. The main red wine-producing region in the north is the Douro Valley, best known for growing touriga francesa and touriga nacional, the two main grape varietals found in Port wines.
South of Douro, toward the center of the country, is the Dâo region, known for making distinctive red wines from several grape varietals. On the south side of the Tagus River, which bisects the country on its way to Lisbon, is the bountiful wine region of Ribatejo. Further south, in succession, are the Alentejo and Algarve regions. These last three areas are where a new breed of winemakers is starting to push the envelope by experimenting with both traditional and international blends.
Here are a few examples that I had the opportunity to taste last week at the Portuguese ambassador’s residence during an event held through the Smithsonian Institution Associates Program. Note: Most of these wines are still young and will not make their way to our area until the fall, so keep an eye out for them in area wine shops in September. Retail prices are approximate.
2003 Pintas, Douro, $50
Made mostly from touriga nacional (65 percent), this red beauty also has tempranillo and touriga franca thrown in for balance and structure. The pretty nose features black strawberries and vanilla. Notes of black cherry, cassis and currant are kept in check by the firm tannins. The appearance of dark chocolate on the long finish provides an opportunity to try it with a chocolate tort.
2003 Quinta Dos Roques Touriga Nacional, Dao, $35
Made solely from Touriga Nacional, it sports scents of roses, dark cherries and vanilla on the aromatic nose. Lighter flavors of cherry and leather meld together on the medium finish. A good choice with soft cheeses.
2003 Quinta Do Mouro Touriga Nacional, Alentejo, $50
Produced by Miguel Louro, a local dentist, this dark beauty will stain your teeth. Scents of currants, plum and toasty oak waft from the glass, then smooth flavors of blackberry, tobacco espresso and cedar come together on the balanced frame. Hints of minerals on the long finish adds extra depth. Lovely with lamb.
2003 Quinta Do Vale Meão, Douro, $55
This is made from the ground up — the grapes are trodden by foot for four hours in granite “lagares” — using four different varietals (touriga nacional, touriga franca, tinta roriz and tinta barroca) that are each vinified separately and then blended to produce a wine of distinction. Scents of violets, cherry cola and cloves dominate the fragrant nose. Ripe cherry fruit, plums, Asian spices and cinnamon are in harmony throughout the palate. Hints of espresso add intrigue to the well-balanced, lengthy finish. I think it would be a very interesting match with Peking duck.
2005 Quinta DoMonte D’Oiro Madrigal Viognier, Estremadura (Alenquer), $25
For a country that prides itself on red wines, this white wine shows that Portugal can do it all. Made from 100 percent viognier and fermented in a combination of stainless-steel vats and French oak barrels, this well-structured Rhone varietal sings with clean flavors of nectarine, peaches and orange blossoms. Hints of lychee nuts swing through the long, elegant finish.
2003 Quinta Do Monte D’Oiro Reserva, Estremadura (Alenquer), $50
After tasting this wine, made from syrah (96 percent) and viognier (4 percent) and aged 18 months in 100 percent new French oak barrels, you’d swear you were enjoying a French Cote Roti. Plums, apricots and chocolate fill the nose while jammy black fruits, violets, spices and leather coat the tongue on a well-integrated chassis. A match for roast pork or game fowl.
2003 Quinta do Crasto Vinha Maria Teresa, Douro, $125
The 30 different grape varieties were hand picked by local workers and foot trodden in a single granite tank. This attention to detail has produced a dark, brooding wine where flavors of jammy blackberries, cassis, licorice and cocoa meld together in the mouth. Well balanced and elegant, this luxurious wine is fit for a porterhouse steak for two — if you don’t mind sharing the wine with your dinner companion.
2003 Niepoort Batuta, Douro, $75
Vine age ranges from 60 to more than 100 years old for this multivarietal blend. Tinta roriz, touriga franca, tinta amarela, touriga nacional and others are combined to produce an powerful wine featuring ripe black fruit, dark chocolate and melted licorice up front and crushed stones on the long, lush finish. Try it with rack of lamb.
Do you have a favorite bottle of wine? E-mail me at [email protected].
