Last week, I wrote about several biodynamic wines from France, including wines from Champagne, Alsace and the Rhone Valley. Needless, to say, the wines I reviewed are simply the proverbial tip of the iceberg. There are many more incredible wines from both France and the rest of the wine-producing world that use biodynamic farming techniques in the vineyard.
This week, I cover several wines from producers in other countries. But first, let me recap the main concepts of biodynamic farming.
The biodynamic farming movement began with a series of lectures given by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in the early 1900s.
The philosophy involves looking at agriculture as a “closed system” — the soil (everything growing above it and in it), insects and local flora — are all connected to each other. If any one part is damaged, the whole suffers. The process involves promoting the use of natural techniques to keep the soil and crops healthy without the use of artificial pesticides or fertilizers. It may also embrace less conventional — and more “cosmological” — practices such as limiting irrigation or planning harvests according to lunar phases or specific astrological events.
It is a system of agricultural philosophy that incorporates both ecological self-sufficiency and ethical-spiritual considerations to farm crops in a responsible fashion. And while it can apply to any type of agricultural produce, it has really caught on over the last two decades with prominent winegrowers from around the world. Many vineyard managers are now using classic techniques that include the use of indigenous predators — such as chickens and ladybugs for pest control — to less conventional methods, such as planting cow horns stuffed with manure at the end of each vineyard row.
Other examples include planting wild flowers and other native vegetation in between vine rows, which are then plowed into the earth to enrich macrobiotic growth that, in turn, provides nutrients for the soil and — in turn — the vines. Macrobiotic bacterium also plays a big role in providing a sustainable ecosystem. Planting different crops — such as olive trees, apple trees and rosebushes among the vineyards — is also encouraged.
Best of all, the farmland is spared from the environmental effect of fertilizers and pesticides that make their way into the watershed network where they can wreak havoc with sensitive ecosystems. Additionally, biodynamic techniques can save money for farmers since they no longer have to purchase expensive chemicals to promote crop growth or provide protection from pesky pests.
Today, biodynamic farming — along with “sustainable” agriculture and organic production — has grown into a widely accepted movement in the winemaking industry. Wine producers around the world are either converting their vineyard operations over to biodynamic techniques or are contracting grapes from vineyards that embrace the practice. Here are several biodynamic wines to consider the next time you want to “drink green.” Retail prices are approximate.
2007 Cosimo Maria Masini “Annick,” San Miniato, Italy ($20)
A blend of 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent sauvignon blanc, this pale yellow wine is full of crisp green apple, nectarine and ripe peach flavors. The mouthfeel is slightly full, but not cloying. The abundant acidity keeps the finish bright and fresh. Hints of citrus make this a great to pair with choice shellfish.
2005 Tenuta di Valgiano Palistorti, Tuscany, Italy ($38)
A lovely red blend made from sangiovese (70 percent), merlot (20 percent) and syrah (10 percent), it exhibits aromas of black and red cherry, raspberry and cloves. Sumptuous flavors of cherry, plum, spice and earthiness are charming as persistent across the palate. The finish is balanced and pleasant, featuring just a touch of mineral and cocoa.
2007 The Milton Vineyard and Winery Riesling, Gisbourne, New Zealand ($23)
The vineyard, located on the banks of the Arai River, near Manutuke, has been farmed biodynamically since 1984. This Riesling is fresh, bright and full of nectarine, lemon peel and kiwi (no pun intended) flavors. Hints of honey on the medium-bodied finish add a touch of depth and richness that could hold its own with spicier foods.
2004 Compania de vinos Telmo Rodriguez Lanzaga, Rioja, Spain ($25)
A spicy red blend of tempranillo, graciano and garnacha, the compelling flavors of red plum, cherry and black raspberry are highlighted by notes of espresso and Baker’s chocolate on the well-structured frame. Notes of sweet tannins add a softer edge to round out the lengthy finish.
2005 Tres Sabores Rutherford Perspective Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calif. ($65)
A classic Rutherford cabernet, it exudes scents of dust and brambly blackberry on the pronounced nose. The palate is well-balanced and features soft tannins and ripe fruit — including blackberry, dark plum and black cherry flavors. A hint of baking spice, toasty oak and mineral characteristics appear on the end of the long, lovely finish.
