Having mastered New England clam-shack fare with her ever-popular Hank’s Oyster Bars in Dupont Circle and Old Town Alexandria, chef Jamie Leeds this summer left the “New” off of her latest venture, which focuses, of all things, on the cuisine and culture of England.
With CommonWealth, Leeds says she wants to “dispel the myth that British food is bad, as the U.K. is focused on revamping their dining image, too.” (Hey, if D.C. can do it, why not Britain?)
When it came to real estate, Leeds and her partner selected a space in the booming Columbia Heights neighborhood, which has of late been long on chain stores such as Target and Best Buy, but short on quality spots to eat and drink. CommonWealth fits both bills.
The Scene: The theme is British, but when I looked around the dining room, the cold, industrial features — walls of cinder block and salvaged wood, high ceilings, stained concrete floors — called to mind another nation: Soviet Russia. Then again, perhaps it’s the restaurant’s emblem of a crossed fork and knife, or its tagline as “The People’s Gastropub” that had me thinking of five-year plans and collectivization.
Bolshevism aside, there are several warm touches here, such as the selection of all-British music that plays, or the soccer games on TV or the chess sets at the bar. And be sure to avail yourself of the 35-seat patio before the weather changes for the worse.
The Pour: About 50 mid-priced American and European wines — half available by the glass or taste — compete for your attention with an array of smartly selected beers. Most are British, including gems like Samuel Smith’s Taddy Porter and Old Speckled Hen, while the remainder hail from U.S. “commonwealths,” e.g., Pennsylvania, Massachusetts and Virginia. Purists will find at least one cask-conditioned ale on draft at all times.
The Taste: Things get started — as they often do around D.C. these days — with cheese and charcuterie, but Leeds’ butcher plate also adds some hot options, such as stuffed trotters, deviled sweetbreads and black pudding (just because it’s English doesn’t mean it’s not adventurous eating). Lemon-stuffed fried olives were tangy, salty and delicious, the first hint that the fry cook knows what he’s doing. Fish and chips were light and flaky, the cottage fries puffy and golden. You’ll also find capable versions of chicken pot pie and steak & oyster pie. The classic bangers and mash get a lift with some tangy onion gravy, while a lemony whole roasted trout benefits from its bread-and-butter stuffing. Not everything sings, however. Sliced roast beef, available on a recent Sunday as a special, was stringy and overcooked. And many of the sides, at $5 each, aren’t worth it. A cauliflower gratin was runny and dull, green beans were woefully undercooked and the “bubble and squeak” (a sort of cabbage and vegetable cake) tasted of little but vinegar.
The Touch: For a young restaurant, the front of the house has its act pretty well together, the occasional missing appetizer or other gaffe notwithstanding. Servers are knowledgeable about the various quirks of the menu and happy to offer guidance.
Don’t Miss: The Scotch eggs — hard-boiled eggs, wrapped in sausage, breaded, fried and served with dipping sauces.
Why You Won’t Go: Not only are portions often large here, but the food, in keeping with British cooking, can be awfully heavy. It may not necessarily suit an Indian summer, but the first time it dips below 30 degrees this winter, this is the place for some stick-to-your-ribs grub.
Why You Will Go: Leeds, like many a local chef, is wearing her commitment to local farms, sustainability and humane treatment of animals on her sleeve — or at least her menu. Front and center on the menu is a list of all the farmers from whom the restaurant purchases, complete with a note of thanks.
If you go
CommonWealth
1400 Irving St. NW
202-265-1400
www.cwgastropub.com
Hours: 5 to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; closed Monday.
Prices: Appetizers $5 to $13; entrees $14 to $19
Bottom Line: At last, a destination dining room in the heart of the Columbia Heights retail corridor — with a clever concept, to boot.
