Dressed in his tailored suit and looking business-like, Chris George does not fit the image of a barbecue chef. But as the owner and head chef of Crystal City’s big-deal barbecue joint, Memphis Barbeque, he will certainly be feeling the pull of the grill and looking the part of a ‘cue man. That he is so attached to this smoky theme is no surprise: George grew up in Memphis, arguably the site of some of the world’s most acclaimed barbecued foods. Indeed, the annual international barbecue battle, Memphis in May, underscores Memphis’s barbecue importance. For George, his new restaurant venture is a little like bringing his home to D.C. “It is close to our hearts,” he says.
His passion for cooking was sparked long ago, he said. “As a child, I came from a legacy of great cooks,” he says. “My mom and my grandma. I watched them and I learned.” George remembers sitting on the kitchen counter, stirring and asking his mother what goes in the bowl next. “I decided early on that I wanted to own and open my own restaurant.”
| If you go |
| Memphis Barbeque |
| Where: 320 S. 23rd St., Arlington |
| Info: 571-970-2727 |
| Hours: Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Fri., 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun., 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sat. and Sun. brunch with daily specials, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. |
But George has spent much of the last 20 years working as a general manger after joining Houston’s, which is under the Hillstone Restaurant Group, with restaurants both here and including Atlanta and Los Angeles, and once again, Memphis. “I have learned all parts of the restaurant business,” he says, from dishwasher and expediter to server and bartender. And I have spent much time in the kitchen,” he says.
In his move to Washington, George worked as the general manager of the Occidental Restaurant, where he revamped the menu and wine lists. After several more moves in a managerial capacity, George obviously felt the tug to initiate his own business. Heavily influenced by the barbecuing style of the Houston’s Group kitchen, George imparted this knowledge at Memphis Barbeque. “I learned the ropes, managed the grills and the wonderful array of grilling and of using the smokers,” he explained. Of course, he notes, he had always had access to and the benefit of the Memphis-style barbecues. “Corky’s is one of the best restaurants there, and one of its chefs is joining us.”
But for the dining public who may associate a barbecue restaurant with smoky, casual joints having rib drippings on the floor, Memphis Barbeque will be a refined and welcoming place, with an open kitchen with its visible smokers. And barbecue fans will not be disappointed by the high-end ambiance: George’s restaurant serves brisket, pork shoulder, and St. Louis cut ribs and baby backs, all slathered with the restaurant’s own special, top-secret barbecue sauce. “It has ketchup, vinegar, and tomato,” hinted George. “And a little sweetness.”
Q&A
What’s your comfort food?
It would be either a great slab of ribs or a great burger grilled over a hickory fire. Also, macaroni and cheese
What is your favorite ingredients?
It starts with what you bring in the back door, the grades of meat. Our barbecue sauce, and bacon — applewood-smoked bacon.
What has been your luckiest moment?
Being hire as management for Houston’s Atlanta and LA
Which is your favorite restaurant?
Houston’s. I am a prime steakhouse kind of guy.
What’s in your fridge?
Cheese. My wife is a cheeseaholic. Skim milk, ground beef. A good bottle of chardonnay and lots of produce.
Recipe
Authentic Memphis BBQ Burgers
Serves 4
2 pounds or better ground beef
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 medium onion, minced
? cup plain cracker crumbs
? cup ketchup
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
Mix together the been egg, onion, and cracker crumbs in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, mix together the ketchup, brown sugar, and mustard. Stir into the meat mixture. Shape into patties and grill to desired doneness.
Basting Sauce
? cup ketchup
3 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
? teaspoon ground nutmeg
Mix all ingredients together, and baste the burgers about 1 to 2 minutes before removing from the grill.
