Austria has never been known for its great wines, but that is beginning to change. The little-known Gruner Veltliner is making its way onto restaurant wine lists and into the fridges of anyone who enjoys a crisp white wine.
Especially in summer, a glass of chilled Gruner is a refreshing treat, by itself or with food. And the price is right, too. It’s easy to find a wonderful bottle of Gruner Veltliner for under $15.
“I love crisp wines like Sauvignon Blanc, and to me this is similar in style, but it has the white pepper aspect going on,” said Laurie Forster, author of “The Sipping Point.” Forster, who lives in Easton, travels the Mid-Atlantic region as The Wine Coach, teaching people how to relax and enjoy wine.
With its citrus notes and “nice snap of acidity,” said Forster, GruVe, as it’s known, goes well with seafood, fried foods and spicy foods, such as Indian and Thai cuisine.
“And it’s great for summer. If we have a party, I can break out the GruVe, and everybody loves it,” she said.
At Victoria Gastro Pub in Columbia, Gruner Veltliner is available by the glass and by the bottle. “We’ve had a really good reception to that wine,” said general manager Tom Bender. “I move as much of the Gruner as the Pinot Grigio.”
Gruner pairs exceptionally well with the gastro pub’s fish and chips, said manager Tori Marriner. The dish is made with Chilean sea bass, which has been stuffed with a shrimp and crab remoulade and deep-fried. It is served with pommes frites.
Until recently, the Austrian wine industry didn’t have much of a footing in the States, Forster said. But the wine, which represents 37 percent of all Austrian wine produced, is quickly gaining in popularity abroad.
“Sommeliers and chefs are falling in love with it because it’s a very aromatic grape,” said Klaus Wittauer, a Virginia-based importer of Austrian wines. The hint of white pepper on the finish sets it apart from other white wines. “That’s what the sommeliers and chefs like, is the spice.”
Austria’s climate is ideal for growing the Gruner Veltliner grape, which originated in northern Italy, said Wittauer.
Forster, The Wine Coach, said while some folks stumble over the pronunciation, GruVe’s clumsy name is a sign of its quality. “If you can’t pronounce it,” she said, “you should definitely be drinking it.”
