Every foodie knows that cooking requires a certain level of chemical knowledge to pull off puffy meringues, succulent brined and roasted turkeys, sturdy pizza crusts, and breads that rise like a sigh and a whisper.
But Michael Santoro, chef de cuisine at the Park Hyatt’s very farm-trendy Blue Duck Tavern, has gone a few steps further than just learning cooking formulas and recipes: He graduated with a culinary arts degree from Johnson & Wales with a focus on food science.
After graduation? “I went to Europe and trained in several places, especially at one restaurant, St. John’s, with chef Fergus Henderson, that specialized in cooking organ meats,” he says. “We have liver, brains, tripe and sweetbreads on the menu here often. These are tasty; I’ve learned how to make them tasty.”
A native of Ohio, Santoro grew up in an Italian family and, of course, ate plenty of Italian home cooking as a kid.
“My mom was a very good cook,” he says, “and she cooked seven nights a week. I always loved to eat, and I had the pleasures of eating well.”
As a teen, Santoro got his first job at a country club, working as a caddie before he got hired for the kitchen. At the same time, he was studying computer sciences, conceding that he liked the technical and research side of his studies. Whether it was his love of good food or his interest in science and technology that shaped him, the two merged, molding a chef who understands what happens when proteins cook or when fruit is cut too soon.
“People often think that searing meat seals in its juices,” he says, “but that is actually wrong. High heat denatures protein so that the meat loses it juice. It’s better to start with moderate heat, and keep turning the meat every 15 to 20 seconds.”
Skeptical about the value of food science knowledge? Santoro continues, explaining how fresh-cut lemons lose flavor fast — because the cut cells digest themselves — and he debunks the myth that blanching green beans in salted water preserves their bright green color.
“We experimented using the same amount of water and beans, but varied the amounts of salt,” he says. “We blanched the beans and tasted them. The beans cooked without salt stayed the brightest green.”
It helps, of course, that Santoro has at his disposal new high-tech equipment and gadgets for brining and making sausages. But his food science knowledge is basic to his kitchen success.
“Food science affects how we cook here,” he says. “We understand what’s happening in the pan, and we use that knowledge for a better result.”
To banish any lingering doubts, Santoro goes on to explain the basics of roasting chicken, a task most home cooks have performed at least once in their kitchen life.
“Roasting chicken is pretty basic,” he says, “but the way we do it is different. I soak mine in salted buttermilk, which softens the meat because the salt denatures the protein and allows it to absorb more liquid. Then I cook it at a low temperature, 155 degrees,” adding that this gentle way of cooking softens and cooks without a harsh temperature contrast.
Part chef, part scientist, Santoro continues to hone his skills and cook with valor and creativity. But he also is sensible enough to remember this: “Don’t tell your mom she’s not cooking right.”
If you go
Blue Duck Tavern
Park Hyatt Washington, 24th and M St. NW
202-419-6755
Hours: Breakfast — 6:15 a.m. to 10 a.m.; Lunch — 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner — 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Brunch Saturday and Sunday
Q&A with Chef Michael Santoro
What has been your hallmark recipe?
It’s always a never-ending search, not just one thing I’ve done in my life. One outstanding one is a veal liver dish, which was very fresh with a nice sauce made with raisins, capers and vermouth. I like that a lot right now.
Do you cook at home?
Yes, just the other day I made potato gratin and some scallops. I will go to the farmers’ market to see what’s fresh and local, and pick it up. I also practice dishes at home.
What is your comfort food?
Pizza, especially from 2 Amys and Alberto’s. I also make it at home. One of my first jobs was at a pizza place.
What’s in your basic pantry?
A really good olive oil, any one that contains Arbequina olives. Different vinegars, salt, good quality black pepper, jams and condiments.
Where do you eat out?
I don’t get a whole lot of time. I haven’t been to the big guys yet. I do go to Bar Pilar, and some ethnic places in Adams Morgan. I also go to Hank’s Oyster Bar, Palena and Komi.
From the Chef’s Kitchen
Pizza Dough
About 16 5-ounce pieces of dough
12 ounces warm water
2 Tbsp. active dry yeast
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
1/4 cup olive oil
3 pounds bread flour
Combine water, yeast, salt and olive oil in a stand mixer and allow the yeast to bloom for 10 minutes. Add the flour all at once, and with a dough hook, knead until a smooth ball is formed. Adjust with a dusting of flour as needed. Allow to proof in a warm place until doubled in bulk.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Punch the dough down, and form into a large ball. Divide the dough into 16 5-ounce portions and allow to rest on a sheet tray for 20 more minutes. Using a rolling pin, roll each out until 1⁄2-inch thick; alternatively, toss in the air to stretch. Top with desired toppings.
Bake pizzas until crispy and the cheese has melted and browned.
