Lisa Frantz takes center stage at D.C.’s Cafe Deluxe, where as executive chef, she oversees the kitchen of one of the city’s busiest restaurants. But landing in this position was not her first choice, nor was a food-centric family her origin. “Nobody in my family cooks in the restaurant industry,” she said. “We had no real family food.” Her main tie to the food world? Her dad is a butcher.
While attending college and art school, Frantz decided that pursuing an artist’s life seemed more like a hobby than work. “I guess I’m a foodie at heart,” she said. “I love to travel and experience cultures. Their food excited me.”
Her food journey led her from her native California to Arizona where she enrolled in the culinary school, Le Cordon Bleu in Scottsdale, Arizona — and graduated top of her class.
| If you go |
| Cafe Deluxe |
| Where: 3228 Wisconsin Ave. NW |
| Info: 202.686.2233 |
| Hours: Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Fri., until 11 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sun., until 10 p.m. |
Onwards from there, she came to Washington for a restaurant job at Founding Farmers. After three years there, she finally decided to look for a different challenge, and that led her to Cafe Deluxe. In her current position, she can use skills learned in both the savory and the sweet sides of the kitchen. “In the past, I worked in the savory kitchen,” she explained, but here she hopes eventually to get into the culinary development of all three area Cafe Deluxe restaurants (also in Tysons and Bethesda).
Although the restaurant’s menus are well established, Frantz does draw up specials on a regular basis. Indeed, one of her signature dishes seemingly has great appeal: mussels with barbecue cream sauce served with roasted corn blue cheese.
Where she gets her recipe inspirations she traces to her extensive annual travels and from her sensibilities of her inner artist. As well, Frantz scours the food press and listens to what restaurant guests have to say about the menu. “We get so many regulars,” she said. “At least 85 percent are returnees, so I have gotten to know what they like.”
Despite her long kitchen hours, Frantz has absolutely no regrets over her career choice, eschewing the idea of a 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. job. “I can’t imagine doing anything else,” she said.
Her family embraces their daughter’s life as well. “It seems so glamorous,” she said. “My mom must think that I am a Food Network star. She loves to hear what new things I am cooking.” Alas, her parents, now residents of Alaska, can’t just drop in to sample their daughter’s culinary creations. But, says Frantz, she still turns to her dad for advice about cuts of meat. “There is one good thing about their living in Alaska,” she said, “my dad sends and stocks my freezer with salmon every year.”
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Meat and potatoes, steak, ribs and bacon … well, my father was a butcher.
What’s in your fridge?
Always have condiments such as Sriracha sauce. I go to the farmers’ market nearby, so I have lots of veggies and fruits. A bottle of champagne and some takeout sushi.
Who has been the greatest influence on your career?
It’s hard to say because I don’t have someone who led me. So probably my travels have been a great influence. And my 10-year-old niece wants to be a chef like Aunt Lisa. I love talking to her about food.
What has been your luckiest moment?
That’s hard to say. I have gotten very far in a short time, so overall my career has been very lucky. I really started just a few years ago, so my whole journey is very lucky. In my first restaurant I went from prep cook to sous-chef. It was something that just clicked.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
Cafe Deluxe, Ichiban Sushi on King St. in Alexandria, La Limena in Rockville, Vidalia, Marcels and BLT.
Recipe
Barbecue Cream Mussels
If roasted corn is unavailable, substitute canned corn. You may use your favorite brand of barbecue sauce, though Frantz uses what she makes in-house.
Serves 1
2 Tbsps vegetable oil
2 slices roughly chopped cooked bacon
1 Tbsp chopped shallots
1/2 Tbsp chopped garlic
1/4 cup roasted corn
24 mussels
2 Tbsps barbecue sauce
2 Tbsps chicken stock
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Tabasco sauce to taste
1/4 lime
2 Tbsps crumbled blue cheese
1 pinch roughly chopped cilantro
1 slice crusty bread
In a large saute pan over medium heat, heat the oil and bacon. Add the shallots, garlic and corn. Oil with bacon. Cook until shallots are translucent. Add the mussels, barbecue sauce, chicken stock, and heavy cream. Season with salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce. Toss together to coat mussels, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook briefly until mussels open and sauce has thickened slightly. Transfer to bowl and squeeze lime over mussels. Sprinkle the blue cheese and cilantro over the top. Serve with your favorite crusty toasted bread.
