Forester L.L. Bean edition is more refined

The Subaru Forester L.L. Bean edition is aptly named. And here is why.

L.L. Bean, once known for its hunting and fishing gear (practical stuff designed for traipsing around in the Maine woods), now offers fitted blazers, polo shirts and leather-trimmed luggage, in a move away from its rugged past.

Like those L.L. Bean clothes, the Forester is probably more comfortable on a suburban byway. The beefiest of all the wagons in the Subaru lineup, the Forester was the closest thing the company had to an sport utility vehicle, before the Tribeca. But if a SUV is about bumping over rutted roads or navigating dry stream beds, the Forester will likely prove lacking.

This isn?t to say it’s ill-equipped for whatever you might ask it to do ? because if you’re like most SUV drivers, “off-roading” might mean the occasional dirt road or a heavily salted snowy driveway.

If you?re into packing gear, towing a smallish trailer or lashing a couple of bikes to the roof, you’ll be pleased.

The seats fold flat to create a cavernous cargo area, its bed covered with thick protective rubbermats. The four-speed version has what they call symmetrical all-wheel-drive, sending power to the wheels as needed, preventing slippage in treacherous conditions.

But this car is way too cushy to be driving around in stream beds. While the exterior colors include deep red, black and forest green, there?s only one interior option: beige, and it?s not as bland as it sounds. The cabin is bright and airy, with light pouring through the oversized power sunroof.

There are cupholders everywhere, and you can charge up your cell and plug in an auxiliary DVD player for the kids via two outlets up front and one in the cargo area. The soft faux leather seats (emblazoned with the L.L. Bean logo) have two heat settings, and the driver?s side can be adjusted automatically, in eight directions. The car is loaded with creature comforts, and my only complaint is the sound system, which rattled the plastic door bins at high volumes, heavy on the bass.

But at the sticker price of around $26,500, it’s a pretty good value ? just like those Bean boots.

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