It?s official. Strip mall restaurants have surpassed their stereotypes of prison food and vending-machine potluck.
In a Laurel strip mall, on the border of Fulton, Scaggsville and Columbia, La Palapa serves Mexican dishes reminiscent of meals at more southern borders.
On a crowded Friday night, the dining room was bustling, but not chaotic. The hostess welcomed and sat us before the front door could close behind us.
Booth-lovers beware: Only tables and chairs are available in the square room. They are set close together but inviting nonetheless, glowing with candlelight and festive tablecloth.
Decorative metal stars, hanging from the ceiling, complement the mauve, olive and tan walls.
Our beaming server?s timing and attitude were impeccable. Our beers ? Mexican Tecates ? came with a pair of chilled glasses and lime wedges.
Bursting with a strong corn flavor, the complimentary chips were fresh but didn?t mesh well with the salsa, which tasted more like tomato-flavored water than the traditional Mexican sauce.
Sweet-smelling jalapenos stuffed with seasoned shredded chicken quickly erased the memory of our soupy salsa. The appetizer, plated with shredded lettuce and a hearty dollop of thick cold sour cream, had a late burn that intensified over time.
La Palapa?s entrees range from $11 to $17. The vast selection includes Mexican standards as well as more high-end dishes, such as rainbow trout in garlic butter, T-bone steak in lime juice and olive oil, and jumbo shrimp with tomatoes, mushrooms and broccoli ? enhanced with a touch of tequila.
My date?s steak and chicken fajitas continued to sizzle several minutes after being served. Green peppers, onions and tomatoes accompanied the pile of tender grilled chicken and steak strips. The steak?s seared texture and buttery flavor made it especially mouth-watering. The satisfying meal, however, came with bland Mexican riceand refried beans, included with most entrées.
The red sauce dripping off my oversized chicken burrito had the consistency and taste of a thick zesty marinara sauce. Thin slices of carrots and parsley added to the entree?s appeal.
Fried French vanilla ice cream encased in a warm brown coating, bejeweled with coconut, ended the Mexican feast on a high note. The dessert?s dripping honey, powdered cinnamon and rich whipped cream were sweet but not gluttonous.
IF YOU GO
La Palapa too
7500 Montpelier Road, Laurel
301-725-3111, www.lapalapatoo.com
» Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday, (kitchen open until 9 p.m.); 11 a.m. to midnight Saturday and Sunday (kitchen open until 10 p.m.)
