This may sound sacrilegious, but eating at the tiny, utilitarian Pizzeria Delfina on 18th Street next to the all embracing mothership, Delfina, feels a bit like a consolation prize.

The new 43-seat Pizzeria Delfina in Pacific Heights, however, comes off like a real restaurant, with enough choices on the menu for a multi-course meal. If you’ve invested time milling on the sidewalk and eyeing the blackboard waiting list through the front door, you want a payoff at the table. The Pacific Heights branch delivers it.