What do you do when you are one of the oldest families in the wine industry, known the world over as a famous producer of Cava and still wines in Spain and already have six — count them, six — wineries in your empire? Why, start another winery — this time in Argentina, of course. That’s what happened in 1999 when the internationally acclaimed Codornu Group — owned entirely by the Ravents family since the 16th century — from Spain decided to develop their seventh project in the acclaimed Mendoza winemaking district of Argentina.
The Septima winery, Spanish for “seventh,” was created to produce modern wines that reflect the uniqueness of the land and remain true to the traditional characteristics of each grape varietal grown there. There are two styles of wines produced by Septima — the single varietal line crafted for “everyday” drinking, and the newer Gran Reserva, which is produced for upscale markets.
The ultra-modern winery is located on 470 acres in the Lujn de Cuyo area of Mendoza. Inspiration for the building is a modern day nod to the ancient Incan monuments and traditional Spanish winemaking as interpreted by the famed Mendoza-based architectural team of Eliana Brmida and Mario Yanzn. The winery building was constructed from natural stone that was brought from a quarry in the Andes range and then arranged in the “Pirca” tradition, similar to the buildings found in the sacred places of the local Huarpes Indians.
The vineyards themselves are located at 3,400 feet above sea level where the arid microclimate is subject to subject to large diurnal shifts — the differences between day and night temperatures which help develop color, tannin and polyphenol production — and where the stony humus soil encourages the plants to take root while still stressing the vines for optimal fruit development. These conditions are ideally situated to grow cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, malbec and tempranillo grapes. An additional 376 acres planted in the Valle de Uco area of Mendoza was acquired in 2007.
As a commitment to the project, the Codornu group appointed winemaker Rubén Calvo, a native of Mendoza, as the chief winemaker for the project. Rubén not only has international experience as a winemaker, he also possesses an acute appreciation of Argentine winemaking traditions and values. Senor Calvo’s goal is to provide a sense of place, a sense of terroir in every bottle. This is accomplished by minimal intervention during the winemaking process, which allows the best characteristics of the fruit to consistently shine through. I had the pleasure to recently meet Senor Calvo and taste firsthand a sample of Rubén’s work. He delivers a sense of place at a remarkable price. Retail prices are approximate.
2007 Bodegas Septima Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina ($12)
This chardonnay derives it pure fruit flavor from the temperature controlled stainless steel fermentation and native yeasts, producing layers of green apple, banana and pineapple on an easy, charming frame. The abundant acidity keeps the finish fresh and balanced.
2006 Bodegas Septima Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($12)
Malbec, the French-bred varietal, long has been associated as the national grape of Argentina, where it shines in the shadows of the Andes. Full of ripe dark berry flavors, including cherry, strawberry and dark plum, this wine is smooth and lush in the mouth. Hints of raspberry and spice join together on the well-balanced finish and give a lasting impression in the mouth.
2005 Bodegas Septima Syrah, Mendoza, Argentina ($12)
This wine emphasizes the softer side of this intense varietal, with aromas of toasty oak and cocoa on the bouquet. Flavors of red plum, dark raspberry, pomegranate and dark chocolate glide across the tongue on a mellow chassis. Notes of vanilla and melted licorice blend in on the soft, laid-back finish.
2005 Bodegas Septima Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina ($12)
Cabernet sauvignon is a very versatile wine, and this is a great example of what Argentina is doing with this ubiquitous varietal. This version is full of spicy scents of earth, berries and cocoa on the nose. Flavors of black cherry, wild strawberry, pipe tobacco and roasted coffee mingle nicely on the well-rounded palate. Hints toasted oak and orange peel sneak in on the medium-bodied finish.
2005 Bodegas Septima Gran Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina ($29)
This flagship red blend is made up of malbec (55 percent), cabernet sauvignon (34 percent) and Tannat (11 percent). It is fermented in small lots and then aged for twelve months in a combination of French and American oak before the final blend is bottled. The aromatic nose shows off remarkable scents of black plums, red cherry and savory spices that lead to powerful notes of blackberry, cherry, ripe jammy plums and leather on the well-structured palate. Notes of toasty cedar, tobacco and sweet tannins intermingle on the long, polished finish. This is a remarkable value for such a complex, age-worthy wine.
