Another in Chef Geoff’s growing restaurant family, Lia’s becomes No. 3, and the first of his restaurants to operate outside of D.C. proper. But considering that Lia’s is about three inches away from the Washington line in Chevy Chase, that probably doesn’t really count.
Unlike the other two — both named Chef Geoff’s, but one downtown and the other uptown — Lia’s takes a different menu approach, featuring a predominately Italian-oriented range of fare. After all, its motto is “There’s no better way to say I love you than with pecorino” – a popular Italian cheese. Even the Chef Geoff burger ($9.95) comes with sautéed mushrooms and Gorgonzola cheese, one of Italy’s greatest gifts.
It’s true, though, that some dishes have a decidedly American undertone. Take the entree salad called Crispy Calamari Caesar ($13.95, lunch and dinner), which comes as a heaping portion of romaine lettuce dressed with Parmesan, croutons, and pieces of battered and deep-fried calamari, an unusual twist on the Caesar scene. As Caesar salads go, this version is probably pretty true to form, though it likely lacked enough garlicbite and anchovy kick to make it a real winner. With this, I ordered a side of pancetta whipped potatoes ($5.95), pairing the all-time favorite of mashed potatoes with crumbly bits of Italian bacon.
But if you are hankering for more authentic eats, scan the menu to select such starters as crispy risotto balls with fontina cheese ($8.95), or even more Italian, cannellini beans with crispy speck ($6.95). As for entrées, most appeal because of their decidedly Italian flair. My friend found no fault with her big bowl of Lia’s Mussels ($17.95), a steaming mix chockfull of mussels in an herb-tomato broth accompanied by a large slice of Gorgonzola toast. Other dishes include the organic chicken served with a polenta cake ($17.95), the veal loin chop with arugula and treviso with a wild mushroom sauté ($25.95), and the fennel-dusted salmon with a cannellini bean cassoulet ($18.95).
Then you’ve got Chef Geoff’s pizza choices, ranging in price from $10.95 for the straightforward tomato and mozzarella combination to $12.95 for the more offbeat chicken thyme sausage, asparagus, apple, and taleggio pie.
Lia’s
Address: 4435 Willard Ave., Chevy Chase, Md.
Phone: 240-223-5427
Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Credit cards: Major credit cards accepted
