Cava Mezze: Small plates, big taste

If we can make it here, we can make it anywhere. That’s what partners Ike Grigoropoulos, Ted Xenohristos and Dimitri Moshovitis must have thought after succeeding with Cava, their Greek mezze restaurant in Rockville that opened in 2006. They admit that everyone told them to stay away from the space located in a strip mall that had seen better days.

But the concept — particularly Moshovitis’ inspired Greek small plates — won convert after convert.

Their second location, opened earlier this year on Capitol Hill’s bustling Barracks Row, boasts a few more built-in advantages, chief among them foot traffic and a clientele hungry for what the three partners are dishing up.

The Scene: This is a gorgeous space. Exposed brick runs along the wall behind the bar area. Leather panels dress up the ceiling, from which hangs large, circular light fixtures. In a nice, homey touch, black-and-white family photos line the opposite wall. A large-format painting of men playing backgammon hangs opposite the lofted second-floor dining room. Up there, you’ll also find one of two handsome outdoor spaces (the other is a modest sidewalk café).

The Pour: You’ll find six varieties of mojitos here (not exactly Greek, but such is the trend) along with a handful of signature cocktails, and even a couple non-alcoholic libations. The wine list is affordable, with the vast majority checking in at under $50. And while you’re here, why not try one of the 18 Greek wines on the list. Like Turkey, Portugal and South America, Greece is an area that’s making surprisingly interesting wines.

The Taste: I could nosh for hours on the variety of small plates that emerge from the kitchen here. Moshovitis’ menu does as well with classic Greek dishes as with some of his less-familiar efforts. In the former category, you’ll find a flaky spanakopita, creamy hummus, zesty tzatziki dip and hand-rolled grape leaves. Mussels emerge in a fennel and Ouzo sauce, while zucchini fritters are rolled with feta and leeks and fried crisp. In the latter category, you’ll find fresh watermelon, served with mint, feta and sea salt. Or jumbo shrimp, sautéed with dill, cream and Ouzo. Shrimp and grits migrates to the Mediterranean with a touch of saffron, garlic and trahana.

The Touch: Table service here is smart and efficient, happy to guide you through the many choices on the menu. One element of service, however, may serve to turn off a few diners: When calling for a reservation, the staff won’t give you a specific time, but rather a “window” of about 45 minutes. So you might get seated right away, or you might hang out at the bar for close to an hour. It’s hard to tell.

Don’t Miss: Any of the creative cheese appetizers. You’ll find it charcoal-grilled, breaded and fried, drenched with honey or spiked with brandy.

Why You Won’t Go: The noise. It can get awfully loud in here, a situation not improved by the thumping house music, nor some sections where tables are unforgivably close together.

Why You Will Go: Because you’re a vegetarian. You’ll find more meatless options here than at most other restaurants around.