With Memorial Day behind us, spring is giving way to summer, as evidenced by the departure of cherry blossoms and the arrival of pollen and tourists. But while the passing of the vernal equinox denotes longer days and much warmer weather, it also marks the official beginning of sushi season in the Greenberg house. I know that you can eat sushi any time of year, but somehow, the approaching summer weather just seems to make the ama-ebi (sweet shrimp) taste just a tad sweeter and the spicy tuna rolls just a little bit zestier.
There was a time in the not-so-distant past when Japanese beer and sake were considered the only acceptable adult beverages to enjoy with traditional servings of maki rolls and nigiri. But all of that has changed, thanks in part to open-minded sushi restaurateurs who now include thoughtful wine selections on their menus.
Here are a few choice selections to look out for at your favorite sushi restaurant or to pick up with your carryout. Retail prices are approximate.
I really like sparkling wines with sushi dishes, particularly roses. The nonvintage Jave Brut from Cava, Spain ($18) is made from pinot noir grapes and offers scents of raspberry, violet and toasted bread. Flavors of strawberry and cherry fruit feel creamy in the mouth but are beautifully balanced by crisp acidity. The bright little bubbles provide a palate-cleansing finish that goes nicely with the rich texture of avocado found in some rolls.
Off-dry wines can be a heavenly match with sushi, like the 2007 Trimbach Gewurztraminer from Alsace, France ($18). This lovely one exhibits a floral bouquet of nectarine, lychee nut and nutmeg. Flavors of mango and passion fruit are built on a slightly sweet frame, but the crisp acidity keeps the flavors focused and clean. Hints of ginger on the finish make this an ideal pairing with sweet shrimp.
Sometimes, I like a wine with bright acidity to clean my palate. The 2009 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma, Calif. ($19) does the trick, with fresh flavors of passion fruit, guava and bright grapefruit. The lemon-lime finish refreshes the palate and makes a great match with brinier offerings on a sushi menu, such as oysters.
The 2009 Stickybeak Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma County, Calif ($15) is a white wine blend that is a bit softer than a traditional sauvignon blanc, with more emphasis on fruit than finish. The fragrant nose features scents of tropical fruit and lemon-lime that also show up on the palate, where they are joined by flavors of honeydew melon and peach. The wine has a nice balance between acidity and fruit with a slightly softer finish featuring lingering notes of citrus and minerals. I think this would go well with yellowtail.
Pinot noirs go great with richer fish, such as salmon and tuna. The substantial weight of the 2007 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir, Yamhill Cuvee from Willamette Valley, Ore. ($35) is a great choice for pairing with toro, with a wonderful nose of strawberry, black plums and graphite. Concentrated flavors of black cherry, wild strawberry, spice and violets are in balance with the firm tannins and abundant acidity.
If spicy tuna hand rolls are how you roll, then you’ll want a glass of the 2008 Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel from Lodi, Calif. ($16) by your side. This spicy red has intense flavors of plum, cherry and black pepper that coat the entire tongue and has great mouthfeel. The briary finish is long and lithe and can certainly hold its own with spicier rolls.
