It could just be me, but I have a difficult time keeping Italian wine regions and their varietals straight. I often need a map of Italy in front of me to figure out what I am drinking and where it comes from. Part of the reason for my confusion is the labyrinth of vineyard designations and the complex regulatory governance that defines and enforces the various levels of quality from each region. Italian vineyards and wines are regulated by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry which is responsible for enforcing the Denominazione di Origine Controllata laws that were originally established in 1963. The Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita was later created in 1980, adopting more restrictive regulations for 30-some odd appellations.
The Indicazione Geografica Tipica was founded in 1992 and consists of roughly 200 appellations. Even though the restrictions are more relaxed than the aforementioned designations, these wine regions must also meet specific rules for production standard and varietal purity.
So what about all of the other wines that do not conform to a specific governing body? They are considered vini da tavola, or table wine. These include wines that can be produced from a prestigious DOCG region but may use a grape varietal or technique that is not approved for that area, so it is considered a vini da tavola no matter how critically acclaimed it may become.
I recently had the pleasure of sampling a variety of wines from across Italy and I finally started to get a grasp on what goes where. So let’s take a tour, north to south, of Italy by red wine. Retail prices are approximate.
In the northern edge of Italy is an area carved out by the Adige River where the estate of Tenuta San Leonardo has been under the ownership of the Guerrieri Gonzaga family since the mid-18th century. Today, the estate is planted to international varietals that thrive in the various microclimates on the nearly 50 acres. The 2008 Terre di Tenuta San Leonardo Vigneti Delle Dolomiti IGT ($15) is an outstanding value. QPR 9.5
A quarter of the way down the coast is where you’ll find Fattoria del Cerro, the largest private estate producing Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The star of the show in this region is the prugnolo gentile, a clone of the sangiovese grape. The 2008 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($16) spends a good bit of time in Slovenian oak which gives the nose a distinctive toasty oak accent. QPR 8
In the dead center of the country is the region of Abruzzo where the vineyards of Cataldi Madonna sit in a valley blessed by exceptional exposure to the sun. The 2010 Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC ($17) is made from 100 percent montepulciano and exudes richness and depth with every sip. QPR 7.5
Founded in 1979 by Gianni Cantele and sons Augusto and Domenico, the vineyard, located in the southern tip of Puglia — in the “heel of the boot” — is home to varietals that include primitivo and negroamaro. Today, Augusto’s son, Gianni Cantele, is the winemaker and is responsible for the wonderfully balanced 2009 Cantele Primitivo Salento IGT ($11). Made exclusively from primitivo, considered by many to be the precursor of zinfandel, it features a toasty oak nose and flavors of succulent red and black fruit on an extremely well-balanced, fat frame. QPR 9
Note: QPR is a rating system that compares the quality a wine delivers relative to the price. A QPR of 10 is considered an excellent value.
