Fyve makes a good effort

» Hours: Breakfast: 6:30 to 11:30 a.m. Monday-Saturday, Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday- Saturday; Dinner: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. daily
» Prices: Appetizers $9 to $16; entrees $22 to $38.
» Bottom Line: Another huge step forward for the local Ritz empire, even if they don’t always get it right.

The revitalization of the Ritz- Carlton’s restaurants around town continues apace. First, Tysons Corner brought in the since-departed Fabio Trabocchi, who made Maestro one of Washington’s culinary temples. Then, last year, New York super-chef Eric Ripert opened West End Bistro at the Ritz downtown.

And now, Amy Brandwein has taken over at the relaunched restaurant at the Ritz’s Pentagon City location. While doesn’t have the pedigree of Ripert or Trabocchi, she’s no slouch, either. A protege of Roberto Donna, she worked under him at Galileo before taking the helm as executive chef of Bebo, his casual Italian eatery in Crystal City.

She and the hotel’s management blew up what was there and started over — new concept, new decor, even a new name, Fyve (a nod to the shape of the nearby Pentagon).

» The scene
A walk through the lobby and past the bar/lounge reveals a room that’s gotten a signifi cant face-lift. The formerly Old World-ish decor has been replaced by a reddish-orange palette, comfy modern seating and contemporary art on the walls. They should have gone even further, however, as the overdone crown molding and wainscoting remains, as does a huge chandelier that hangs over a wine display in the middle of the room — a hotel restaurant cliche if ever there was one. But my biggest gripe isn’t one that can be helped: The room doesn’t stand out from the rest of the fi rst-fl oor space. In fact, it feels like an extension of the lobby. From some seats, you can see almost clear out the front door and out to the valet stand.

» The pour
The wine list here is an accountant’s dream and an oenophile’s nightmare. The list is unimaginative, full of all-too-obvious selections of mostly California wines. Even worse, it’s overpriced, with some bottles marked up 50 percent or more beyond what I’ve seen them
sell for elsewhere in the metro area. And fi nally, as I discussed with Cure Wine Bar last week, here’s another restaurant that doesn’t list the vintages of its offerings, except on the most expensive selections. Shame.

» The taste
Of course you should steer toward Chef Brandwein’s Italian creations. Burrata cheese over a salad of fresh tomatoes, watermelon and beets is like summer in a bowl. Veal sweetbreads echo the classic veal piccata, with lemon-butter-caper sauce and spinach. And her house-made pappardelle with mushrooms and butter was earthy and velvety. It left me crying out for more because the rest of the menu hews more closely to New American preparations, with a few varied international infl uences. Fresh summer gazpacho gets a nice bottom end from some rich beets. Grilled octopus was perfectly cooked and accompanied by a potato-oliveparsley salad. “Fyve”-spiced salmon with tomato and fennel oil was a big jolt of fl avor, but not so much the swordfish or the “Amy’s Purse,” a fillet of cod wrapped in cellophane with tomato-herb broth. Both registered low on the excitement scale. Mussels, too, while among the freshest I’ve tasted recently, were done in by a dull and underseasoned broth.

» The touch
The career staff here may not be the best you’ll ever encounter, but they’re far from the worst: They’re effi cient, formal and helpful.

» Don’t miss
The letter-perfect Grand Marnier souffle, which requires a 25-minute lead time. But take a pass on the other made-to-order dessert, the dry and crumbly apple tart.

» Why you won’t go
Despite the face-lift, this is still a very corporate environment.

» Why you will go
Even when full, this is a blessedly quiet, tranquil space.