When I mention Australian wines to many of my wine-consumer friends, their first reaction is usually to think of wines from either the McLaren Vale or Barossa appellations, located in the wine region of South Australia. Occasionally, someone might try to impress the others by causally naming-dropping Hunter Valley in New South Wales or Yarra Valley in Victoria, but it is fairly rare when people — even wine savvy people — mention the Margaret River region in Western Australia. It’s only natural since over 90 percent of the wines imported into the United States from Australia come from South Australia.
I have a feeling that that is about to change.
The region, located just three hours drive south of Perth in the southwestern corner of the continent, is about 120 kilometers long and 30 kilometers wide. It runs from Cape Leeuwin in the north and extends down to Cape Naturaliste in the south. This bucolic part of Australia is known as much for its rugged beauty as it is for its burgeoning wine scene. The maritime splendor of the Indian Ocean is responsible for not just the spectacular, rugged coastline, but also for the influential part it plays in the vineyards along the Margaret River, providing a temperate climate and gentle diurnal sifts that aide in producing consistently ripe vintages.
The region first came to notice in 1965 when John Gladstones, an agriculturalist, began to notice similarities between the Margaret River and the Bordeaux region in France. The well-draining gravelly soils and the maritime influence were strong indicators that vitis vinifera (wine grapes) would thrive in this area. So a few years later he planted several acres at a site known as Vasse Felix — named after a Thomas Vasse, a French seaman who drowned after his boat sank off the coast of Wannerup Beach and the vines thrived.
A short time later, Cape Mentelle Winery joined four other founding wineries in an effort to put this isolated and untamed region on the proverbial wine making map. Established in 1970, Cape Mentelle has spent many years helping to define and improve the wine styles of the region, earning countless accolades and praise along the way. The seminal moment arrived in 1983 when their Cabernet Sauvignon captured Australia’s most prestigious wine award, the Jimmy Watson Trophy. But what really brought Margaret River international fame is when Cape Mentelle won the coveted prize again, the very next year.
Today, Cape Mentelle Winery is in the capable hands of winemaker Simon Burnell. Simon offers a diverse range of food-friendly wines whose hallmark continues to be consistency. Here is a sample from his portfolio that is available in our marketplace. Retail prices are approximate and subject to change.
2007 Cape Mentelle Winery Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, Australia ($20)
A lot of Australian producers are making blends with these two white varietals, but sauvignon blanc is usually the star of the show. However, this particular blend features semillon — at 60 percent — as the predominate grape in the blend. And it works beautifully. Grapefruit, guava and passion fruit shine on the front of the palate while weightier notes of banana jump in on the back of the tongue. The great acidity keeps the finish bright and fresh. This would work well with spicy Asian cuisine.
2005 Cape Mentelle Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia ($25)
The grapes are cold pressed and fermented using wild yeast. The resulting wine is then aged in equal parts new Burgundian French oak, one-year-old oak and two-year-old oak barrels. Scents of vanilla, apple and peach dominate the nose and are mimicked on the richly textured frame in the mouth. Lovely notes of vanilla and butterscotch and find their way in on medium-bodied finish. A perfect compliment to pan seared halibut.
2004 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Margaret River, Australia ($20)
Once again an equal blend of new and used oak barrels are used for aging this wine, however Simon uses barrels of Bordeaux cooperage. The wine — made from 60 percent cabernet sauvignon and 40 percent merlot — shows off with a spicy bouquet of mint, cherry, cocoa and tobacco. The firm structure highlights concentrated notes of red berry, black cherry and spices. Hints of toasty oak and mocha glide in on the medium finish. Perfect with grilled steak.
2005 Cape Mentelle Shiraz, Margaret River, Australia ($25)
About 20 percent of the grapes for this wine are handpicked and then whole bunch pressed. After initial fermentation, the wine is then basket-pressed and allowed to go through malolactic fermentation, This results in a highly concentrated wine with scents of plum, raspberry and vanilla on the vibrant bouquet. Densely packed flavors of mocha, ripe plum and black cherry feel velvety smooth on the front of the tongue and on the finish, where hints of pepper and dried herbs join in for a memorable finish. Rack up a rack of lamb for a classic pairing.
