The first thing you might notice about 1905 restaurant, the new second-floor eatery along 9th Street in Shaw, is its diminutive scale. The dining room is tiny, the bar not much more than a nook, and the wine list and menu fit comfortably on pamphlet-size pages.
Still, that’s part of the charm for this American eatery by four partners who have varied experience in D.C.’s restaurant scene, from Sticky Rice in the Atlas District to Local 16 nearby on U Street.
The Scene: Mismatched chandeliers and sconces crowd the diminutive brick-walled space, making you feel as if you stepped into an Old World cafe — perhaps in the 1920s. The decor screams of date night possibilities, and the overall vibe is very romantic. Your fellow diners are likely to be as hip as the waitstaff.
The Pour: The modest wine list keeps every bottle under $40 (and most are available by the glass). We found a pleasant Australian shiraz and a California zin for only a few dollars apiece. Still, if you’d like to crack open a special bottle to celebrate an occasion, you won’t find it here.
The Taste: Red meat is the way to go on this menu. A tender sirloin steak in green peppercorn sauce was loaded with earthy flavor, and at $22 better than many cuts I’ve had for $10 more. Ditto the $12 burger: juicy and flavorful, it’s set upon an airy brioche bun and served with crispy cottage fries. The rest of the menu runs barely a dozen more items — a scope that demands more consistent execution from what I’ve seen from the kitchen. Grilled shrimp with chorizo and capers in a smooth red sauce hit every Spanish-inspired note perfectly. Gnocchi with wilted greens and duck confit, however, was a mushy mess. An endive and watercress salad was bright and fresh, but the tomatoes in a panzanella salad were mealy and flavorless.
The Touch: Service here needs some work as well. I’ve experienced two types on my visits: organized chaos on a busy night, where we never quite knew when our server would return; and surly, distant service on a slower night. At least management seems to be wise to the troubles: As I was leaving after one visit, the maitre d’ knowingly asked our party, “Service wasn’t so good?”
Don’t Miss: The chance to have a drink at the dark, out-of-the-way bar. If you’re looking for a spot to steal away from the world for an hour or two, this is it — especially given the late-night hours.
Why You Won’t Go: Tables here are awfully close together, and it can get quite loud when busy.
Why You Will Go: Because like many diners these days, you’re on a budget. Here, you can have a pleasant — even romantic — meal for two for about $60.
If you go
1905 Restaurant
1905 9th St. NW
202-332-1905
Hours: 5:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5:30 p.m. to 3 a.m. Friday-Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $7 to $9; entrees $10 to $22
Bottom Line: Despite some food and service issues, the winning atmosphere already gives this new eatery the feel of a well-kept secret.
