Chile’s long, narrow geography — bordered by more than 2,500 miles of Pacific coastline on the west, the Andes Mountains (only 315 miles) to the east, the Atacama Desert to the north and Antarctica in the south — has created a natural barrier that has resulted in one of the most pristine ecosystems in the world. And thanks to a fertile mixture of geography and climate, Chile has been blessed with a diverse agricultural environment that is perfect for growing a wide range of produce, including a large variety of wine grapes.
Winemaking in Chile began about 450 years ago when Spanish missionaries introduced grapevines to the region for ceremonial consumption. However, it quickly became apparent that the sunny days, cool nights and the Mediterranean climate were well-suited to producing wines of exceptional quality. During the next century, Chilean wine producers began to search for the most advantageous locations to plant new vineyards. They discovered the diverse topography and rich soil composition of the Central Valley were capable of supporting many of the popular grape varietals.
In the later part of the 18th century, the introduction of traditional European varietals, such as cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and merlot, resulted in a dramatic increase of wine exports from Chile. The foreign vines quickly adapted to their new home — particularly in the Maipo and Casablanca valleys — and Chilean wines began to rival some of the best wines from Europe, particularly France and Spain. Today, these grapevines are thought to be the only pre-phylloxera (a virulent agricultural pest that destroyed the vast majority of the vineyards in Europe in the late 1800s) vine specimens that exist in the world.
There are now more than 50,000 acres of vines planted in Chile, and the focus of Chilean winemakers is beginning to shift from the fertile Central Valley to more remote regions. They are experimenting with new varieties while exploring new regions, including moving west toward the Pacific Ocean and east into the foothills of the Andes.
At a recent tasting, hosted by the Chilean Embassy, several regions were represented to showcase the diversity of today’s Chilean wines. This week, I will cover white varietals and will continue next week with the red wines. Retail prices are approximate.
Starting in the Maipo Valley, the closest wine region to Santiago, comes the 2009 Cousino-Macul Sauvignon Gris ($15), which possesses a fragrant nose of nectarine, acacia flowers and citrus fruits and rich, layered flavors of tropical fruit and citrus in the mouth. Just a touch of ginger on the balanced finish adds texture and depth. Enjoy it with Caldillo de Congrio Dorado (a white fish dish).
Just north of the Maipo Valley is the east-west-oriented Aconcangua Valley, whose stable climate condition is ideal for the 2009 In Situ Chardonnay, Winemaker’s Selection ($13). This charming chardonnay offers up aromas of green apple and nectarine and a whisper of vanilla. In the mouth, the wine is clean, bright and fresh, with flavors of nectarine, pineapple and citrus. There is a nice mineral undertone on the finish, where abundant acidity provides a crisp note at the end. Perfect with avocado and celery soup, topped with king crab.
Heading a bit south of Santiago and toward the ocean, the Colchagua Valley is becoming well-known for its production of French wine varietals. The 2009 Cono Sur Vision Viognier ($13) is a cute play on words but a serious wine for the money. The appealing nose of nectarine, banana and floral notes is joined by flavors of pineapple and peaches on the evenly balanced finish. Buttered toast notes on the end make it a great pairing for Pastel de Choclo (a traditional corn and chicken casserole).
Also from the Colchagua Valley comes the delightfully crisp and refreshing 2009 Lurton Hacienda Araucano Sauvignon Blanc Reserva ($13). The grassy nose — with additional scents of citrus and spice — reminded me of a classic sauvignon blanc. The medium-bodied frame features bright notes of peach, nectarine and gooseberry, all buoyed by lively acidity. Hints of citrus keep the finish fresh and clean. Great with seafood.
Located due west of Santiago is the wine region known as Leyda Valley, where the cooler climate accents the citrus aromas on the nose of the 2009 Luis Felipe Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Family Selection ($9). Flavors of apple and nectarine stay crisp on the tongue while additional notes of citrus and tropical fruit add noticeable depth on the finish. Try it with seared scallops in orange dressing.
At the southern end of the country, the Bio Bio Valley is home to the 2009 Cono Sur Riesling ($9). This remarkable value is gaining popularity thanks to its bright flavors of ripe apple and honeyed orange notes that pleasantly coat the tongue. There is just enough sweetness and acidity to keep the wine balanced and focused.
Next week: The diversity of Chile, part two.
