The unusual path to the kitchen

Just like many of his colleagues, Abdellah Aguenaou, executive chef at Washington’s The Renaissance Mayflower hotel, started cooking as a youngster. But unlike most, he actually started working with his father in the family restaurant in Rabat, Morocco, his native city.

“I cooked, and in the early morning, I would do the shopping and go to local farms,” he says. So not only did he learn at an early age about the wonders of fresh and local ingredients, he also got his first taste of the glories of local spices ground fresh each day.

With that as a background, it’s small wonder that Aguenaou, as a university student in France studying engineering, worked in local Parisian restaurants at night. Besides picking up pocket money, he also picked up the rudiments of classic French cooking. At some point during his schooling, he realized that working in the kitchen wasn’t really work at all.

“I just loved it,” he says. “It was fun, and I learned every day.”

Eventually, Aguenaou moved to New York, where to learn English, he got a menial job in a restaurant kitchen. Since he was always watching the cooks at work, he could substitute behind the stove when someone called in sick. With enough in his savings and plenty of practical experience to boot, Aguenaou enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), from which he earned two degrees and graduated with both honors and high honors.

“When I was in school,” he says, “I attended classes and also helped the guest chef to do demonstrations. Then I would go to New York City to work for free, just to learn. I’d get in the kitchen, peel potatoes and do the dirty work, but I would watch and learn.”

And where were those training kitchens? The St. Regis hotel and the restaurants of Le Cirque, L’espinasse and the late Windows on the World.

His other extracurricular activities proved to be a stepping-stone: Aguenaou founded and was president of the international club.

“We would do a big cookout on weekends,” he says. “So as a student, I was doing a chef’s job and didn’t know it. I was buying, planning and cooking. The school was the best thing that happened to me. I took advantage of everything.”

As an extern at the CIA, Aguenaou went west to Scottsdale, Ariz., where he worked as a line cook at the five-star Mary Elaine at the Phoenician Resort under chef Alessandro Stratta.

“That’s when I learned a lot about fine foods,” he says. “Stratta was demanding the finest foods. He didn’t want me to go back to school.”

After several years elsewhere, Aguenaou ended up in Washington, working first at the Marriot Wardman Park hotel as assistant banquet chef. After several years and a promotion, Aguenaou moved to the Mayflower, where he oversees all aspects of the hotel’s kitchens. He also has control over recipe development, and has shifted the menus to showcase more seasonal meals, some with a hint of Moroccan flavors — such as the sea bass recipe.

“The fish sits in a Moroccan marinade of ginger, garlic, paprika, cumin, orange juice, olive oil, cilantro and parsley,” he says. “The citrus and ginger work well with the fish.”

Although Washington is his home, Aguenaou visits his parents in Rabat, and while there, cooks for them.

“My parents are very proud,” the former engineering student says. “They are proud that I could make a good living, have a happy family, plus they are amazed at all the attention I get.”

Q&A with Chef Abdellah Aguenaou

What is your comfort food?

When I’m stressed, I don’t want to eat, except a New York steak cooked medium-rare and seasoned with Monteal steak seasoning. I put it on the grill. It’s the best thing with Yuko gold mashed potatoes and sautéed mushrooms.

Where’s your favorite restaurant?

In New York. Daniel Boulud’s Restaurant Daniel and Le Bernardin. Here, it’s CityZen, Vidalia, Equinox: these are my three favorites.

Which is your favorite cuisine?

French is my favorite, from Southern France to the Mediterranean. It’s not heavy food.

What advice would you give for successful cooking?

First, love what you do. You cannot work as a chef if you hate cooking. You must be up to date, be teachable, and open-minded. I watch cooking shows, and learn every day. It’s “Hell’s Kitchen,” “Iron Chef,” and Bobby Flay.

What’s in your fridge?

A lot of fruit. My wife loves fruit. Spinach, baby carrots, asparagus, juices, and cheeses; Camembert is my favorite.

From the Chef’s Kitchen

Moroccan Marinade

Yields 1 1/2 quarts

Use this for marinating chicken, lamb or fish. Or turn it into a sauce by adding 2 pounds of roasted and puréed tomatoes.

1/2 cup paprika

3 Tbsp ground cumin

3 Tbsp chili powder

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup orange juice

1/2 cup lemon juice

6 Tbsp honey

1/2 cup chopped garlic

1/2 cup diced onion

1/2 cup chopped parsley

6 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro

6 Tbsp grated fresh ginger

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Toast the dry spices until slightly smoking, and set aside. Pour the olive oil, orange juice, lemon juice and honey into a food processor and blend well. Add the garlic, onion, parsley and fresh cilantro and purée until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.