Flame-red car, ruby slippers, scarlet letter, rosy lips — when the choice is red, there’s always a reason. No wallflower, red’s connotations span passion, heat, alarm, victory, health and life itself. Various cultures have embraced red as protection against evil, a portent of good luck and a charm for fertility.
Before synthetic dyes transformed textile-making in the latter half of the 19th century, red cloth was a luxury available only to the rich. While readying to open RED at the Textile Museum, curator Rebecca Stevens explained why.
Natural dyes, some dating to 2600 B.C.E. China, were derived from leaves, roots, minerals and animals from insects to mollusks. “The root of the madder plant was the source of red for Central Asian rugs and textiles as well as European red textiles,” noted Stevens. But extracting the dye was a delicate and demanding process. Too much heat or humidity during the preparation cycle of digging, scraping, drying and grinding the root could ruin an entire crop.
When used with different mordants — substances that create a chemical bond between dye and fiber — madder produces many shades of red, including the deep red seen in an asmalyk on display. Asmalyk adorned camels as they carried the bridal trousseau for nomadic wedding ceremonies. The roving weavers of Central Asia made inventive use of the sparse materials found where they encamped.
Insect dye sources were also fraught with challenges. Consider the cochineal. These cactus-dwelling bugs yield the brilliant red seen in the 16th-century Ottoman floor cover on view in the exhibition. Slight frost or prolonged rain kills the insects, pre-empting their use as a dye. Thus shipping the cochineal from warmer climates such as Mexico became big international business.
“The insects were harvested by hand, an expensive and labor-intensive method which also increased the cost of the dye,” said Stevens. Consequently, wealthy customers coveted red textiles as a status symbol. As in the case of the floor cover, the treasured dye was shown off in sophisticated patterns reflecting exceptional craft.
In 1856, William Henry Perkin sought a cure for malaria from quinine derived from coal tar. Serendipitously, the English chemist wound up concocting the first synthetic dye. After his “mauve” was heartily embraced by the royal family, the streets of London turned red.
Over in Germany, another young chemist interrupted his quest to synthesize a pH indicator after producing a eye-catching red dye that was eventually dubbed Congo Red and patented. It could color textile fibers directly without adding mordants
Along with history, RED presents classics from a 2,000-year-old Peruvian tunic border and a ’70s Halston gown.
There’s marriage material from bridal trousseaus — and love stories. Poetry embedded in the cartouches of an exotic 16th-century textile fragment from Iran weaves the tale of ill-fated lovers. Pity Farhad, who dies from exhaustion while digging through a mountain to obtain milk for Shirin.
Less romantic but still bewitching is a tapestry that survived from 6th-century Egypt. A beautifully rendered red leopard strains forward against an undyed linen backdrop. Coptic weavers created intricate designs, using wool yarns that were easier to dye and amenable to more saturated hues than linen.
A 19th-century hanging from Uzbekistan was intended to intensify the bride’s fertility and the groom’s virility. A pattern of bold circles lends a contemporary feel.
From Japan, a kimono’s red lining provides a hidden touch of glamour. Rocketing forward to 2004, Thomas Cronenberg recounts his journey between straight and gay worlds through his “Identity Series” tapestry “TOMMY USA.” The self-portrait glows with the color long linked to eroticism and vice, more recently appropriated by politicos.
With samples from cult to couture, RED reminds us that there’s more behind color choices than meets the eye.
RED
On view to July 8
» Venue: The Textile Museum, 2320 S St. NW
» Tix: Free (suggested donation $5)
» Info: 202-667-0441;
www.textilemuseum.org
Related Events:
» Gallery Talk & Tour with curator Rebecca Stevens; 11 a.m. Saturday; Free
» Family First Saturday:
“RADIANT RED” Scavenger hunts, hands-on projects, artists, performances and create Valentine’s Day cards. 2 to 4 p.m. Saturday; Free
» RED Valentine’s Party
6 to 8 p.m. on Wednesday; $12
Register at 202-667-0441
