Chutney?s ?sweet? reputation is well-earned

Looking for an easy way to dress up a cheese plate, a sandwich or a boring piece of meat? A few spoonfuls of chutney can take your plate from tired to inspired.

Chutneys have traveled the globe, from India to Europe to the Caribbean and the States, as savory accompaniments to curries, roasted meats and fish, and more.

Indian chutneys, meant to accompany curries, tend to be very hot and runny, and they do not contain sugar or vinegar. Western-style chutneys consist of fruit, sugar, vinegar and spices, cooked down into a thick sauce, and with a good balance between spicy and sweet. They can be served warm, cold or at room temperature.

Helena Williams, chef/owner of Smedly’s GastroCafe in Fells Point, makes a variety of chutneys in small batches to serve her customers. “I go for hot and sweet, not tangy and sweet,” she said. She adds lemon or lime juice instead of vinegar, and plenty of diced peppers.

“A bit of fresh, homemade chutney brings back summer fruit flavors, even on a cold winter day,” said Williams. “And because chutney keeps well if refrigerated, I generally make several batches.”

Padma Lakshmi, cookbook author and host of the reality series “Top Chef,” talks about the addictive power of chutneys in her most recent book, “Tangy Tart Hot & Sweet.” She is in talks to produce her own line of chutneys, according to her publicist.

Oliver Turner, director of marketing for the family-owned Virginia Chutney Co., has seen chutneys grow in popularity. The company’s sales have doubled every year since the company launched in 2003. “If we’ve been successful, it has been because of the burgeoning cheese market,” Turner said. “And the local food movement has helped.”

Virginia Chutney Co. makes half-a-dozen varieties of chutney, some of which can be found at Baltimore-area Whole Foods markets, in the cheese section.

Chutneys best complement cheddar, Gouda and brie cheeses, said Turner. He also likes to spread a layer of chutney atop a piece of roast pork, chicken or salmon for the last few moments of cooking to create a flavorful glaze.

Cranberry fig chutney

1 12-ounce bag cranberries

1 8-ounce package dried Calimyrna figs, sliced

1 small onion, chopped

1/2 small lemon, chopped (discard seeds)

2 tablespoons peeled, minced ginger

1 cup packed brown sugar

1 cup water

1/3 cup vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in nonreactive 3-quart saucepan. Heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes or until thickened. Cover tightly and refrigerate until well chilled. Use within two weeks.

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