Jeff Tunks is one D.C. chef who needs no introduction. A powerhouse in the local dining scene, Tunks — executive chef and co-owner of DC Coast, Ceiba, Acadiana and PassionFish — puts his culinary stamp on everything he touches, including his new venture District Commons. Not only that, this high-profile man with his many talents has won the coveted Chef of the Year award by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington for 2003-2004. Many D.C. foodies may think of Tunks as a New Orleans man — he was a prime mover in raising disaster-relief funds and awareness to help Louisiana locals after Hurricane Katrina — but Tunks is a Midwesterner by birth. Like many of his colleagues, he attended the Culinary Institute of America but he is different in that he graduated with top honors and received the Frances L. Roth award. From there, Tunks did his externship under Dean Ferring at the Veranda Club in Atlanta, transferring with him to the Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas, where Tunks worked at Mistral, a sister restaurant on the complex. Later, he moved around to other top-notch restaurants in various parts of the country. At the Grill Room at the Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans, Tunks earned highest marks, Mobil 5 Stars. Working with other acclaimed chefs, Tunks began to form the foundation of his cooking credo: quality ingredients plus refined cooking skills equal primo meals.
Ending up in D.C. about 15 years ago, Tunks and partners began their local restaurant group with DC Coast. Several restaurants with very different menus later, Tunks has arrived at what may be his the jewel in his chef’s toque: District Commons. “I wanted to do something that was new with great dynamics,” he said, “and one that was chef-driven [rather than a chain]. … We wanted a concept that would be approachable, affordable and that offered great quality.”
| If you go |
| District Commons |
| » Where: 2200 Pennsylvania Ave. NW |
| » Info: 202-587-8277 |
| » Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday to Saturday, 5:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday; brunch, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday |
What he has engineered in this dual concept is an American brasserie with all-American-sourced ingredients and classic American desserts, he says, plus a burger joint with luscious shakes. “So it’s two-in-one. These may be different restaurants,” he explained, “but it is the same chef and the same management team.”
To further underscore the uniqueness of the restaurants’ dual personality, Tunks emphasizes that all elements of each menu are made from scratch. His restaurant corner in the West End has a captive audience of George Washington University students and personnel, the hospital, the International Monetary Fund, and residents.
What’s Tunks’ next concept? He admits that right now opening these two new restaurants-in-one has been challenging. “This takes times, and I want to be here all the time,” Tunks said. “I really have enjoyed my career, and it has come full circle. I started out cooking hamburgers, and it is super to watch people [at BTS] enjoy the burgers they eat … and I now cook much better.”
Q&A
What is your favorite dish?
For my last meal, I would want a dry-aged prime steak, like a prime porterhouse, plus all the usual suspects, like creamed spinach and a big glass of red wine.
What is your cooking philosophy?
I am very straightforward and cook with not too much fuss. Let the ingredient speak for itself. I source the best and most seasonal ingredients, and there are no smoke and mirrors. It’s just well-executed food on a plate with no hidden surprises.
What is your most important ingredient?
Salt. That separates a lot of restaurants. The key is consistency. We work from overseeing recipes, and a salt is a big part of the overall taste. … Salt is so important, even when blanching vegetables.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
It depends on where and with whom. Sometimes if I want a formal, blow-out meal dinner is at Marcel’s. … If I want pho, I go to Pho Today in Virginia and to Honey Pig for Korean barbecue. … Morimoto in Philadelphia with him [Morimoto] cooking.
What’s in your fridge right now?
My vice: Diet Pepsi. My virtue: 1 percent Horizon milk.
Recipe
Texas Chili con Carne
Serves 10 to 15
Serve with a side of cornbread
1/2 cup vegetable oil, separated
1/2 red onion, peeled and medium diced
1 jalapeno, and medium diced
1 poblano pepper, medium diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
12 ounces canned tomato, peeled and diced
1 chipotle chile, diced
4 cascabel chiles, dried
4 pasilla chiles, dried
4 guajillo chiles, dried
1/2 tablespoon ground cumin
1/2 tablespoon onion powder
1/2 tablespoon garlic powder
1/2 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon salt
3 pounds chuck, trimmed of fat and medium diced
1 bottle dark beer, such as Guinness or Negra Modelo
1/4 cup 60 percent chocolate disc
4 quarts chicken stock
Grated cheddar cheese for garnish
Diced onion for garnish
Sour cream for garnish
Heat ? cup vegetable oil in a medium-sized stockpot over medium heat. Add the diced onion, jalapeno chile, poblano chile, and minced garlic and cook until the onion is translucent and soft. Add the canned tomato and chipotle chile, reduce the temperature to medium-low, and continue to cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the ingredients cool. When cool, pour the contents of the pot into a blender and puree until smooth. Set aside.
Take the dried cascabel, pasilla, and guajillo chiles and place into a spice grinder or blender. Pulverize the chiles until fine enough to use as a seasoning. Combine the pulverized chiles with the cumin, onion powder, garlic powder, oregano and salt, and rub into the chuck to season.
In a heavy stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the remaining oil over medium-high heat until it almost smokes, then add the seasoned meat. Let the chuck cook undisturbed for a few minutes, then stir with a wooden spoon to cook evenly. Once the meat is browned on all sides, pour the beer into the pot. Keep the heat as is and let the beer reduce by one-third. Regularly stir the pot with the wooden spoon, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pot to ensure that no elements are getting scorched by the heat. Add the chocolate and stir to melt. Add the pureed vegetables and three quarts of the chicken stock.
Cook over low heat for three to four hours, or until the meat is tender. Skim off any surface fat, and continue to scrape the bottom of the pot a few times during cooking to prevent any burning. Add the remainder of the stock as needed. Garnish with grated cheddar cheese, diced white onion and sour cream.
