Pie is impossible. This iconic American dessert lets us down with soggy crusts, leaden crusts, too much crust, over-thickened filling, over- sweetened filling, not enough filling. But when pie achieves that elusive balance between flaky buttery crust and sweet-tart fresh fruit, nothing satisfiesmore. A nice big wedge of pie can be breakfast or lunch. And even if I’m full, I can’t resist pie after dinner — maybe because it’s a dish I have never been able to successfully make myself.
So when I heard about the pie at the Mission Beach Cafe, open just five months, I rushed over. Yes, the pie has it all, but what really surprised me about this casual, urbane little Mission/Dolores neighborhood spot was dinner. I came for the pie and left admiring the salad.
