It’s easy to admire a young chef who is at the top of his game, and who controls the kitchens of the newly redefined and redesigned Ardeo and its next-door neighbor, Bardeo. Abuzz with chatter, Ardeo + Bardeo is a go-to place, and not solely because of the expanded wine list or funky cocktails. One could guess that the bold, if somewhat eccentric, cooking style of executive chef Nate Garyantes is a major magnet for D.C.’s sophisticates looking for memorable times. Consider a menu that offers such remarkable temptations as suckling pork belly with pineapple and ham, or smoked duck breast with green garlic spaetzle, or even spring lamb ravioli with peas, mint, and smoked yogurt.
What influences have shaped this creative cook? He says because his father was in the restaurant industry, and he grew up in that, and the last thing he ever wanted was to work in the restaurant industry.
| IF YOU GO |
| Ardeo + Bardeo |
| » Where: 3311 Connecticut Ave. NW |
| » Info: 202-244-6750 |
| » Hours: 5 to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekend brunch |
Yet some inner Zen must have been at work, for after spending one year at the University of Delaware, he enlisted in the Army for three years and was stationed in Hawaii. Later, while Garyantes attended university there, he found work as a server at the Outrigger Reef Hotel and interned briefly as a line cook. But that short stint did the trick: “I got sucked into it, and fell in love with it,” he says. “I worked in the front of the house but was drawn to the back.”
After two years, Garyantes moved back to Delaware, moving onward and upward in his career, even owning his own place, Restaurant 821 in Wilmington, which he ran until it closed three years later.
Just at that point in his cooking career, Garyantes came to Washington, where he landed a job working with Jose Andres at Cafe Atlantico.
Whether his food is avant-garde or uncomplicated basic fare, Garyantes says that he structures each dish based on taste and memory association. “Most of my cooking is indicative of my food memories or others’ food memories,” he says, recounting how he developed the scalloped schnitzel appetizer.
“It emulates my thought process,” he says. “It reminded me of my grandmother and her German heritage. My grandma had a black walnut tree in her backyard, and I spent much time with her when I was growing up.” But the real food connection is this — Garyantes’ grandmother was a late-1970s foodie, who watched Julia Child cooking on her tiny black-and-white kitchen television. “She probably had as much to do with my life then as anyone,” he says.
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
I like fried chicken, and Korean barbecue. While working at the mini bar, I would go out late and be hungry. I would go to the restaurant Honey Pig [in Annandale]. It’s open 24 hours a day, and we’d go there at 2 or 3 a.m.
What has been the greatest influence on your cooking?
It’s very collective, and influenced by all the people I’ve worked with, including dish washers and prep cooks. My grandmother was really responsible for my pursuing a culinary career. … I am trying to improve daily, so I learn from anyone.
What is your favorite ingredient?
That’s tough. I guess I would have to say, the pig. We are getting in whole pigs at restaurant and using every bit of it. I am curing our own bacon, making our own pancetta, and making head cheese. I really enjoy that style of cooking the whole animal.
Which is your favorite restaurant? Cuisine?
I rarely get to go out, but I love ethnic cooking and authentic Mexican, and I find myself at Oyamel all the time.
What’s in your fridge?
Lot of what the kids eat, such as mac ‘n’ cheese, a whole chicken, Trader Joe’s things, beer and wine.
Scalloped Schnitzel
Chef’s tip: It’s helpful to sprinkle a little water onto the plastic wrap so that the scallops don’t stick to it.
Serves 4 to 6
1 pound large sea scallops (Dayboat Scallop)
1 pound bay scallops, preferably Taylor Bay, in the shell
1 cup white wine
3 garlic cloves
2 sprigs thyme
All-purpose flour
Egg wash, of 1 whisked egg mixed with a little water
4 Tbsps. butter, or more as needed
Plain bread crumbs
About ? cup shredded red cabbage
Toasted walnuts, preferably black walnuts
Fresh lemon juice
Cider Vinaigrette
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup apple cider
1/2 cup olive oil
Pinch of salt
Cinnamon-Chili Salt
1 cup kosher salt
2 tsps ground cinnamon
1 tsp New Mexican chili powder
Cut sea scallops in half horizontally into two discs. Pound each disc between two sheets of plastic wrap to approximately 1/4-inch thickness. Dredge each half in all-purpose flour, then egg wash and then bread crumbs.
Place the bay scallops in a pot with the white wine, garlic and thyme. Steam scallops open over high heat until their shells open. Then cool on a parchment-lined tray. Once cool, remove scallops from shell and clean the scallops of their roe sack.
Combine all the ingredients for the dressing/vinaigrette, and emulsify with a blender. For the salt to season the dish, combine salt, cinnamon, and chili powder.
Heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat until foamy. Dip the sea scallops on both sides into the egg wash and then into the bread crumbs. Brown on both sides, remove from heat, and drain on paper towels.
Arrange the shredded cabbage, toasted walnuts and two bay scallops on a plate and top with cider vinaigrette. Season with cinnamon/chile salt. Add the schnitzel scallops to the plate, and squeeze fresh lemon juice over top. Top with more cabbage salad. Drizzle more cider vinaigrette around the plate.
