It’s no secret the Italian wine region of Piedmont, bordered by France to the west, Switzerland to the north and the Italian Riviera to the south, is the source of two of the country’s most prestigious wines; Barolo and Barbaresco. Both of these wines have a long and celebrated history throughout Italy and Europe, so their quality is highly regulated. There are more than 50 Denominazione di Origine Controllata- and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita-designated zones that hold vineyard owners and winemakers accountable to the highest standards in the country. Winemaking in this region is taken as a serious art form.
And no one takes the art of Barolo more seriously than the estate of Marchesi di Barolo, whose winemaking roots date back to the 12th century, when the Falletti family became the original owners. Over the next several centuries, successive generations of Falletis went on to develop a sterling reputation for wines produced in their region. The Marchesi di Barolo cellars remained in Falletti hands up until 1864, when Marchesa Guilia Falletti died without an heir — but not without making her mark on the winemaking region. It was due to her initiatives that the term Barolo was reserved for the finest Nebbiolo-based wines from the small hilltop town of the same name.
Today, the celebrated property is in the capable hands of the charming Anna Abbona, who represents the fourth generation of the new owners. Under her leadership, the historic Marchesi di Barolo cellars have been upgraded to include a top-flight restaurant, hospitality center, tasting room and gift shop. To increase sales locally and abroad, Anna has personally overseen the development of a global network of representatives. She has also expanded the estate’s holdings to more than 100 acres of vineyard land including the majority of the famed Canubi vineyard, considered by many to be the finest vineyard in Barolo. Her dedication to both the family winery and the industry are reminiscent of the remarkable accomplishments achieved by Marchesa nearly 150 years ago.
Signora Abbona has worked hard to produce impressive wines to match the estate’s long-standing reputation. Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera — which form the holy trio of red wine grapes native to Piedmont — are transformed into wonderful wines in the hands of the skillful winemakers at Marchesi di Barolo. Of course, Anna would prefer to call them small works of art in a bottle.
Here is a sampling of the wines offered by the Marchesi portfolio. Retail prices and availability are subject to change.
2007 Marchesi di Barolo Gavi Le Lune, Piedmont, Italy ($17)
The indigenous Cortese grape is responsible for the popular white wine Gavi. Pretty scents of acacia, apricot and wet stone float up on the bouquet. Notes of nectarine, lime and minerals are buoyed by crisp acidity, and hints of peach on the finish really open the palate and make a great way to start a meal.
2007 Marchesi di Barolo Dolcetto d’Alba Madonna di Como, Piedmont ($18)
The Dolcetto grape has a rich, distinctive red color that is cherished among Piedmont locals. The gorgeous nose of vanilla, plum and chocolate appears heavier than the actual wine feels in the mouth, where lighter, prettier flavors of cherry, red berry fruit and cocoa remain dry and well-balanced. The supple finish is pleasing and relaxed.
2004 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo, Piedmont ($55)
From the heart of the Barolo DOCG, this wine — made from 100 percent Nebbiolo — delivers classic characteristics associated with the varietal. Hints of plum, vanilla, violets and cocoa are layered on the lovely bouquet. In the mouth, the wine is elegant and full-bodied with jam-packed flavors of black plum, cherry and spices. The persistent finish features just a touch of menthol on the back end.
2003 Marchesi di Barolo “Vigne di Proprieta” Barolo, Piedmont, ($63)
The wine is a blend of grapes literally made from the best “vines of the owner” in the Barolo commune. The nose features concentrated notes of tobacco, licorice and truffles. The elegant but firm structure supports exquisite flavors of cherry, dark raspberry, plum and spices. Hints of cinnamon seep through the lingering finish and provide remarkable polish.
2004 Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi, Piedmont ($100)
Many Italian wine experts believe that the Cannubi vineyard produces the ultimate expression of Nebbiolo grapes. The Marchesi estate owns nearly two-thirds of the stony soil-laden vineyard and handpicks the best grapes to go into this bottling. The wine is aged for two years in oak casks and an additional year in the bottle before release. The bouquet is filled with scents of rose petals, cinnamon, clove and licorice. Flavors of plum, cassis, spices and orange peel are well-integrated with firm tannins and abundant acidity. Toasty oak notes provide an enduring finish.
