A native of Minneapolis, executive chef Chris Nye at Falls Church’s Pizzeria Orso is not the least bit Italian. So how can he produce such dream-about pizzas and luscious Italian meals? For starters, he grew up in a family in which good eating and home-cooked meals were standard. Nye, along with his brother and mother, was responsible for the elaborate meals the family would enjoy together, thus giving him his first experiences in a kitchen. “My mom always insisted we would be at home for dinner,” he said. “This was to be with the family because food was the centerpiece for the family.” In addition, Nye’s mom, prepared good, healthful, traditional Jewish food, he says, and she always insisted that her family clean their plates.
During his teens, Nye would take any food-related job he could find, beginning restaurant work at the age of 16. He’s apparently done it all, from scooping ice cream to managing a small restaurant. Deciding to attend the Culinary Arts program at Minneapolis Community College, Nye took part-time work with friend and mentor, Jonathan Hunt, to open the restaurant Al Vento. It would seem that that work formed the basis for his now all-Italian passion: “It offered pizza [on the menu], and I am passionate about pizza and Italian food,” he said. “I really love pizza and it was a great platform to learn the ingredients for Neapolitan pizza.”
| IF YOU GO |
| Pizzeria Orso |
| » Where: 400 S. Maple Ave., Falls Church |
| » Info: 703-226-3460 |
| » Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday to Saturday, 11:30 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday |
Nye talks about the joys of Neapolitan pizza, a cook-fast pie that finishes its oven work in about 90 seconds. “This way the cheeses don’t get rubbery,” he explained. It helps, he adds, that Pizzeria Orso uses an oven crafted out of volcanic ash, only one of three such ovens in the United States. “These have been produced by the same family for 4 or 5 generations from the ash of Mount Vesuvius,” he said. And of course, it’s imported from Naples.
Thus it seems the trick of divine pizza comes at least partially from the oven, and Nye further explains the benefit of lava for pizza cooking. For one, the oven has no fan, so its temperature reaches and maintains its 900 to 1000 degrees, leaving little room for error. As an added benefit, the lava oven imparts a smoky taste and a slight char to the pizzas, enhancing their overall flavor.
That’s critical, of course, but the chef’s skill seals the deal. “I ate at every pizzeria in the area,” he said. “And ou [yeast] dough is unlike any other elsewhere. It’s above the others in its fermenting time.”
Plus Nye has worked in some very upscale restaurants, honing his culinary skills in such places as Cafe Boulud in New York, where he met executive Chef Bertrand Chemel of Falls Church’s elegant French-American dining destination, 2941; Chemel invited Nye to work for him at the restaurant in 2009. So Nye can draw upon his classic training to produce exceptional pizzas and Italian dishes. But these may well veer far from their Italian roots. “I put an American spin on things,” he said. “For the Creole pizza, I make it with Andouille sausage and corn,” adding that all the charcuterie and breads in the restaurant are made in house.
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Pasta, generally with tomato sauce. When I go home, and I want quick food, that’s it. Pizza would also be a comfort food, but I can’t make it everywhere. I don’t do delivery pizza.
What has been the greatest influence on your cooking?
My wife, for not letting me get down on myself. And Bertrand Chemel [chef at 2941 restaurant], his drive and energy level.
Where is your favorite place in the world?
I hope to find it someplace, but right now, it’s Target Field [Minnesota] with my wife and some hot dogs. Or the Boundary Waters between the US and Canada for fishing.
What’s in your fridge?
Beer, mustard, bread, hummus, and very little else. I don’t eat at home much.
What is your must-have ingredient?
Salt. Good sea salt. That is a must. Most people don’t understand how to season so using it properly can make a difference. Canola oil for searing and roasting and a good olive oil for dressings.
Recipe
Christopher Nye’s Pork Meatballs With Sweet Pepper Sugo
Makes 24 2-ounce meatballs
For the sourdough crumb, use the portion of bread that remains after you have removed the crust. Crumble the bread to make the crumb. “Sugo” means a long-cooked meat sauce.
Pork Meatballs
2 pounds ground pork
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground fennel
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
6oz sourdough crumb (what’s left after the crust is removed)
6oz Whole Milk
3 ounces fresh ricotta cheese
2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons olive oil for searing the meatballs
Mix the meat in a mixing bowl with the herbs, spices, and salt. Place in the freezer. While the meat is chilling take the sourdough crumb and cover it with the milk. Once the milk has saturated the bread, squeeze it dry with your hands. Discard the milk. Mix the ground meat with the ricotta, ground bread, and egg in a stand mixer using the paddle attachment on low speed, about 30 seconds. The meat becomes one cohesive unit and will be soft yet sticky.
Using an ice cream scoop, form the meatballs and place onto a tray; make them as uniform as possible. Roll the meatballs between your hands until they are round in shape; moisten sticky hands with a little water to prevent sticking to the meat. Cover and refrigerate the meatballs for at least 30 minutes to firm them.
Sweet Pepper Sugo:
? cup chopped fennel
? cup chopped onion
1 cup sweet peppers, seeded and diced
2 teaspoons minced garlic
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 (1-pound) can of San Marzano tomatoes, undrained
1 quart chicken stock
2 sprigs rosemary (for cooking)
2 tablespoons salt or to taste
Sweat all the vegetables except the tomatoes in a stockpot with olive oil over medium-low heat. When the vegetables are soft, add the tomatoes and the chicken stock. Season with the salt, and bring to a boil. When the sauce comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and cook, covered, for 30 minutes. When the vegetables have become mushy, pur?e them with a hand blender, keeping the mixture a little chunky.
To finish cooking the meatballs, in a large heatproof casserole dish, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat, and sear the meatballs until golden brown. Add the sauce, and bring to a boil. Add the rosemary sprig, and reduce the heat to low. Cover, and cook for 45 minutes. Serve hot.
