Paul Pelt, executive chef of D.C.’s beloved Tabard Inn restaurant, may look like a rock star or jazz musician, but this is one man who has focused his adult life on the kitchen and its many charms. A native of Chicago, Pelt moved to D.C. to live on Capitol Hill with his dad during his formative years, and hasn’t spent much time away from the city since then. While Pelt may wistfully dream of traveling to far-off lands to explore other cuisines, he is really dedicated to the culinary arts here in the nation’s capital, spending most of his waking life pouring over cookbooks and dreaming up memorable fare.
While his dad may have preferred listening to music to cooking, the two still cooked together. By the time Pelt reached adolescence, working at local restaurants, even if just bussing tables, did not seem foreign at all. He remembers one of his first jobs, when he started doing prep work, his boss the chef told him that a line cook would not be in. ” ‘You have to cook,’ ” he said the chef told him. ” ‘And don’t mess up or you are out of here.’ ”
| If you go |
| The Restaurant at Hotel Tabard Inn |
| » Where: 1739 N St. NW |
| » Info: 202-331-8528 |
| » Hours: Breakfast, 7 to 10 a.m. Monday to Friday, 8 to 9:45 a.m. Saturday, 8 to 9:15 a.m. Sunday; lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 6 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; brunch, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday |
Pelt didn’t mess up, but that job eventually led to many others. “I went through lots of places and ate lots of pizzas and bar food,” he explained. “But eventually I got to work in the Tabard Inn back in the ’90s, and I loved it.” His then-boss encouraged the young man to start reading cookbooks, a habit that he has carried on to the present: he admits to owning stacks and stacks of cookbooks. “One of my favorites is ‘Thai Street Food’ by David Thompson,” he says.
After six years there, Pelt moved to Rocky’s Cafe in Adams Morgan, owned by a friend. When that closed after four years, Pelt moved back to the Tabard Inn, where he has been cooking since. He began as the executive chef in 2007, and that takes him to the present.
Admittedly, Pelt’s creations are simply amazing, and it occurs to an outsider to ask about his source of ideas. “My inspiration,” he said. “It is a mixed bag. I read a lot. My favorite foods now are Asian and Italian. … I like Southern and Caribbean foods.” Beyond those influences, Pelt says he will look at an ingredient or several ingredients, and wonder what he would do with it or them. “I try to imagine how something will taste before I even try out a recipe,” he said.
Now with many years’ experience behind him, Pelt has no regrets about his career choice. But he is sad to know that his dad, who provided him with the initial cooking motivation, did not live long enough to see his son become what he is today.
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Chinese food. I like Full Key on University Boulevard in Wheaton. Or Mark’s Duck House off Route 50. And I like barbecue. From Chicago … they like red sauce, a tomato-based sauce and a lot of smoke. If you get ribs, they are put on top of fries, and then there is red sauce on top.
What is your favorite ingredient?
Ginger, scallions and right now, short ribs. I have been taking short ribs, and cooking them with oyster sauce. Broccoli with boneless short ribs, scallions and caramelized onions.
What would you most like to do with a year off?
Travel and eat and hear live music. I would get a schedule of favorite bands in which cities and what you can eat there. I would spend a lot of time in New York City.
What’s in your fridge?
A lot of leftovers. Bacon, eggs, lemongrass, ginger, cilantro, pork stock. Lots of pork stock, for making noodles. I eat a lot of white udon noodles. … Coconut water, scallions, a cilantro-red curry paste, miso and shrimp.
What cooking tips would you share with home cooks?
Don’t be afraid to season. If you overseason, people will forgive you. If you underseason, people will think you cannot cook.
Recipe
Creamy Potato Soup with Buttermilk and Blue Cheese
Serves 4 to 6
6 Tbsp butter
3 onions, coarsely chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 Tbsp salt
1 tsp white pepper
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
3 cups heavy cream
1 cup buttermilk
4 ounces grated Parmesan cheese
4 ounces blue cheese
Snipped chives for garnish
Blue cheese croutons for garnish (see recipe below)
Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat, and when it is melted saute the onion, garlic, salt and pepper until the onions are translucent.
Add the potatoes and the chicken or vegetable stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Stir in the cream, buttermilk and two cheeses. Remove from the heat, and puree in a blender or food processor. Adjust the seasonings, if needed, and garnish with chives and blue cheese croutons.
To make blue cheese croutons, blend blue cheese with some olive oil, toss the mixture in a bowl with cubed bread, and toast in a preheated oven until golden.
