Tiny Bicycle attracts diners willing to spend big

Unassumingly nestled across from a Chinese takeout place, The Bicycle restaurant in Federal Hill is hardly subtle.

The tiny colorful restaurant was bustling with people and activity, and was filled with sights, smells and sounds. In fact, the packed dining room, full of 30- and 40-somethings laughing and chatting loudly, was sometimes unbearably loud, perhaps due to its small size.

We began with the sashimi tuna and avocado tartare ($12) for our appetizer. Topped with greens and flying fish roe, or golden caviar, the raw tuna was chilled and smothered in a sweet Balinese crushed-peanut dressing. The cool chopped avocado was soft but fresh and complemented the tuna nicely.

The sizable portion of Mongolian barbecued beef short ribs ($26) were braised with a sweet Asian barbecue glaze that reminded me of teriyaki. Although a little fatty for my taste, the meat was tender and easily speared off the bone.

Although we had eaten like kings, we left the restaurant feeling as if we might be hungry again in 30 minutes, and we wondered whether the dishes were worth the hefty price tags.

IF YOU GO

The Bicycle

1444 Light St., Baltimore

410-234-1900

» What you?ll eat: Internationally inspired dishes with exotic sides

» Who you?ll see: Baltimore 30- and 40-somethings

» What you?ll drink: A variety of red and white wines

» What you?ll pay: $100 for two

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