Victoria’s Secret for decades sold one thing: sexy. With gorgeous models in seductive photo shoots, Victoria’s Secret provided women with aesthetic inspiration.
As modern feminism and new identity politics swept across American culture, the lingerie retailer tried to stand against the tide. No more. The largest lingerie giant in the country has admitted defeat and launched its first “diverse” advertisement campaign, complete not just with lacy androgyny, but with both a plus-sized and transgender model.
The campaign, coordinated in conjunction with British brand Bluebella, is a far cry from the pink-lined push-up bras and glittery thongs of collections’ past. The new effort to be “intersectional” is a stark departure from since-resigned Chief Marketing Officer Ed Rasek. Just last year, Rasek lambasted the critics demanding he add transgender and plus-sized models to the fray.
“Does the brand think about diversity? Yes. Do we offer larger sizes? Yes,” a defiant Rasek told the press of the brand’s haters. “It’s like, why doesn’t your show do this? Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in the show? No. No, I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy. It’s a 42-minute entertainment special. That’s what it is.”
Victoria’s Secret, which has seen its market share slide and stock crumble in recent years, changed course, not because of the models themselves, but rather what they’re selling.
For decades, Victoria’s Secret sold women the promise that with the right bra, they could be as fierce as Tyra Banks, and for decades, it worked. But some miscalculations tripped up the brand. Victoria’s Secret canceled its massively popular swimwear line and focused on fragrances. Furthermore, Victoria’s Secret was trying to do what so many other retailers have failed to do in the era of e-commerce: run brick-and-mortar stores profitably. This allowed new online competitors to undercut them.
For a brand that’s been excoriated as catering to the patriarchy, it was always a celebration of women. Women comprise 70% of the annual fashion show’s audience. The models, who are more ethnically diverse than most colleges or newsrooms, weren’t making money by selling sex to men; they were selling an image of beauty to women who wanted to embody it.
These days, with boring brassieres and uninspired ads, it seems that’s no longer allowed.
