Gammon has made a come-back in Britain. Not as a dish, obviously — the pinkish pork cut was last in fashion in the 1970s, when it went through a deplorable phase of being served with pineapple rings. No, it has come back this time as a political insult.

Gammon is the way trendy young Lefties refer to jowelly middle-aged white men with flushed complexions and conservative opinions. These white men often lack university degrees, and sometimes complain about political correctness. This makes them objects of ridicule to fashionable liberals, most of whom began life with many more advantages than the men they are mocking. A compilation of various splenetic-looking, ruddy-faced, short-haired men in the audience of “Question Time,” the BBC’s flagship political show, became a popular internet meme, tagged #WallOfGammon.