We did it. We begged, we cajoled, we promised great rewards, and finally we bribed our family members into watching our three boys so we could reach escape velocity and slip away on a “business trip” that happened to include a seven-day voyage through the Adriatic and Aegean seas on a luxurious cruise ship. All in the name of day-job work.
But lest we forget that all play and no work makes our editor nervous, we decided to take advantage of the local offerings and report back the results of our diligent research. We were fortunate enough to have on board a second-generation Italian wine merchant, Stefano Mearini, whose Charleston wine shop — located in the Tuscan town of Arezzo — is internationally known for its high-end selections. Mearini was hired to select all of the wonderful Italian vino for the shipboard meals and decadent snacks.
Faced with limited production and vintage variations, Stefanohad a considerable challenge in finding enough red and white wines to pair with each dinner — seven in all — on board. Given the size of the guest list, Stefano had to convince his suppliers to sell him 180 bottles of each of the 14 different wines. Because some of the wineries only make 800 to 1,000 bottles per year, that quantity represented a sizable chunk of their annual production. But Stefano prevailed and we were blessed with a wide assortment of handcrafted wines from several regions located throughout Italy.
In addition to the treat of having the ability to enjoy seven different white wines and seven different red wines throughout the course of the cruise, we had the added pleasure of being able to spend some personal time with Stefano and his charming wife, Rosella, to discuss the wines in depth and get an insider’s perspective about the families that live and work behind each of Stefano’s selections.
While we both enjoyed many of the wines we tasted throughout the cruise, we each found our own “favorites.” All in all, we thought many of the wines were “good” on their own, but were absolutely transformed into “great” when paired with food. Here are the notes on our favorite wines from the trip. Retail prices are approximate and most wines can be found at your local wine shop or can be ordered by your favorite retailer — including Stefano’s (enotecacharleston.com).
She said
I really liked many of the fruit-driven wines that Stefano selected. They offered the option of drinking them on their own, as well as with food.
2006 Sergio Zenato Lugana Bianco Riserva Veneto, Italy ($29)
This lovely white wine is made with grapes from 15- to 20-year-old vines from the Podre Massoni vineyard in the Veneto region. It features notes of apricot, passion fruit and vanilla on the nose, and the palate, where a crisp body, with underlying lemon-lime characteristics, supports the flavors. Perfect with linguine and white clam sauce.
2007 Baracchi Astore Trebbiano Cortona Arezzo, Italy ($25)
Made from 100 percent Trebbiano grapes and fermented and aged in stainless steel vats, this wine delivers beautiful floral scents on the nose and clean, crisp flavors of apricot, ripe peach and nectarine. The citrus undertones are accentuated by the bright acidity and provide a lovely finish. Wonderful with grilled branzino.
2005 Tenuta Setti Ponte Oreno, Tuscany, Italy ($50)
Made from a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese, this “super Tuscan” wine needs several more years to show its true potential. Vibrant scents of black raspberry, violets and toasted oak dominate the bouquet. Big fruit — blackberry, black raspberry and dark plum — attack the palate and are supported by firm tannins that provide balance and structure. The long finish features notes of toasted oak and chocolate and would do a veal chop proud.
He said
I gravitated more toward the food-friendly wines in which high acidity and structure were more prominent than fruit.
2007 Feudi San Gregorio Greco di Tufo, Campania, Italy ($15)
This white grape varietal of Greek origin thrives on the volcanic soil found near Vesuvius. It displays a sweet nose of peach, pear, vanilla and a hint of slate. Flavors of peach, nectarine and green apple glide over the palate while hints of ripe apricot appear on the long, acidity-based finish. Try it with herb and garlic roasted chicken.
2004 Boscarelli Il Nocio Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy ($47)
This 100 percent sangiovese carries a big nose of vanilla, pumpkin spices and a touch of licorice. The large tannic frame is tamed by the abundant acidity, which carries the flavors of red cherry, plum and blueberry across the entire palate and onto the medium finish. A sure winner with pasta pomodoro.
1999 Mastroberardino “Radici” Taurasi Riserva, Campania, Italy ($30)
The ancient grape, taurasi, produces a wine with a bouquet featuring spicy notes of plum, prune and smoky oak. The elegant palate presents layered flavors of black cherry, violets, tobacco and cedar with notes of pepper and dried herbs on the beautifully balanced finish. Simply wonderful with osso buco.
