Wines that will raise your spirits in a down market

Published October 29, 2008 4:00am ET



Up, down, down, up, down, up, down, up, down, down, up, down. Watching the stock market lately is a bit like watching a kid on a pogo stick bouncing down a hill. It goes up. It comes down. We just wish it would do a little more of the former and a lot less of the latter. After all, it’s cutting into our wine budget.

And evidently, we’re not the only ones. After speaking to several wine shop owners around town, it seems that many wine lovers are trimming the sails on buying expensive wine. One shopkeeper explained, “We’re still busy and people are still buying wine, but they’re asking more questions about wines in the ‘under $15’ range. And they’re shying away from the more expensive wines — the same wines that used to sell as soon as we got them in.”

So, what are people buying nowadays? Well, according to Jon Genderson, co-owner of Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, customers are “drinking a lot of great wines from Chile, Australia, New Zealand and Spain.”

He adds, “Winemaking has universally improved around the world, so wines at the lower end of the price range represents a much better value than they used to. Inexpensive wines don’t necessarily mean bad wines. But you still need to be selective — and a little pickier — when looking for value.”

And no one likes a good bargain in a sluggish economy more than we do. So we took out our trusty corkscrew and got right to work. We sampled more than 40 wines from around the globe that cost less than $15 — and some less than $10. We judged them on taste, balance and overall pleasure versus price. As usual, we did not agree on some of our picks, so we offer our individual favorites and ask you to be the judge. Besides, if you get caught up in the research, you just might forget about the kid on the pogo stick.

Retail prices and availability are approximate and subject to change. 

She said

2007 Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc, Colchagua, Chile ($9)

MacArthur Beverages in D.C.

I like this wine because it has a “full feel” in the mouth and gets my palate open. It’s full of bright citrusy flavors, such as lemon and grapefruit, up front but provides richer flavors of melon, nectarine and peach on the back of the palate. The finish is crisp and refreshing.

 

2007 Dr. Loosen “Dr. L” QBA Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany ($11)

Schneider’s of Capitol Hill in D.C.

This is such a versatile wine. The flavors of ripe apple, peach, apricot and nectarine provide a nice counterbalance to the abundant acidity. The finish is long and pleasing, and has just a touch of sweetness that lends itself to spicier, richer pairings.

 

2004 Abadia Retuerta Rivola Sardon de Duero, Spain ($14)

Calvert Woodley in D.C.

A great value for a deep, luscious red wine. Flavors of blackberry, cassis and plum dominate the front of the palate. Layered notes of black licorice, cinnamon and espresso glide in on the supple, lush, medium-bodied finish.

 

2006 Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile ($14)

Schneider’s of Capitol Hill in D.C.

This wine gets high marks for its ability to drink well now and later. Beautiful notes of blackberry, black cherry, dark plums and smoke get great support from the soft tannins that help cover the entire palate with concentrated fruit. The long finish features hints of cocoa and vanilla that last 30-plus seconds after the last sip.

He said

2006 Valminor Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain ($13)

The Wine Specialist in D.C.

If you aren’t familiar with Albarino, this is a great choice to start with. This white wine is full of grapefruit, nectarine and melon notes on the nose and palate, and follows through with additional flavors of pear and creamy lemon on the lovely, mineral-laden finish. Loads of acidity keep the wine crisp and focused.

 

2007 Mastroberardino Falanghina, Sannio, Italy ($15)

MacArthur Beverages in D.C.

Falanghina is a white wine that features scents of peach, apple and acacia on the aromatic nose. The lively acidity keeps the flavors of stone fruit, lemon and pineapple fresh and bright across the palate; a delightful aperitif.

 

2007 De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia ($12)

Calvert Woodley in D.C.

A very pretty wine and a bargain for pinot noir, it features scents of wild strawberry and cherry on the bright nose. Flavors of red cherry, raspberry and violets mingle on the lighter-side-of-life palate and provide a nice mouthfeel. The medium finish is pleasant and delightful.

 

2005 Celler de Capcanes “Mas Donis” Barrica, Montsant, Spain ($14)

Chevy Chase Wine and Spirits in D.C.

A blend of garnacha (grenache) and syrah, this red beauty is aged for eight months in French and American oak. The remarkable nose features cedar, blueberry jam and black pepper. Beautifully layered flavors of black cherry, cassis and ripe plum integrate nicely with the notes of vanilla and spice on the long, elegant finish.